I. Rock climbing category. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkistan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak 3800, via North-North-West face. 4. Proposed category 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 660 m, route length 911 m. Length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff. – 450 m. 6 cat. diff. – 460 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 80° (3140–3590). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons 36 protection gear 237, 89 bolts 5, 1 7. Team's working hours: 45.5, days 4. 8. Overnights: 3 nights in a platform-tent on the wall, 1 — on the ridge. 9. Team leader and coach: Pogorelov Alexander Grigorievich, Master of Sports of the USSR. Team members:

• Pyatnitsyn Alexander Alekseevich — Master of Sports of the USSR International Class
• Rudko Anatoly Georgievich — Candidate Master of Sports
• Paevsky Oleg Yurievich — Candidate Master of Sports
• Spiridonov Alexander Semenovich — Candidate Master of Sports
• Petyakhev Vasily Nikolaevich — Candidate Master of Sports

10. Start of the route: June 9, 1988. Summit — June 12, 1989. Return — June 13, 1989.
11. Organization: Educational and Sports Center for Alpinism "Planet" SK "Rostselmash".

Photo 1. General photo of the peak 3800 m summit. June 14, 1988. 14:00. Lens "Helios-44" Г=50. Distance to the object 2 km. Height of the shooting point 3000 m. Shooting point 1 — team's route.

Team's Tactical Actions

Overall, the ascent was carried out according to the tactical plan. The team reached the summit half a day earlier than planned due to the team's clear work throughout the route. Overnights were organized in the planned locations, in a hanging platform-tent. The third overnight was set up under an overhang at the end of section R17–R18. The first and second overnights were on a sheer wall at the end of section R6–R7. Both times the tent was hung from ledges where a regular tent could not be set up. The basis for organizing the rope teams' work was the principle of optimal distribution of the team's forces. Two rope teams (Rudko – Pogorelov and Paevsky – Petyakhev) were formed to work ahead with the plan of changing the leader in the middle of the day and switching rope teams every other day. The third rope team (Pyatnitsyn – Spiridonov) supported the leading rope teams and organized bivouacs. This specialization fully justified itself. The work of the leaders was distributed as follows: Rudko — R7–R8, R12–R26; Pogorelov — R0–R7, R16–R29; Paevsky — R10–R12, R33–R41; Petyakhev — R8–R10, R29–R33. The team mostly climbed using free climbing. ITO was used where free climbing was impossible. The first climber used a rope that met UIAA requirements, 12 mm. Belaying was done through an improved "Bukashka" by Koshevnik, which was also used for rappelling. The belay station was organized using three elements balanced by a load-sharing loop. The movement of the other participants was done using double ropes with two jumar ascenders and a "prusik" or with top-rope belay. The main problem was passing monolithic slabs after the planned first overnight and the upper sheer part of the wall. To overcome these, skyhooks, hooked rackets, and in some places, bolt hangers were used. The work schedule on the route corresponded to the tactical plan. Work on the route started around 8:30 and ended around 21:00. Hot meals were provided morning and evening, and snacks were provided for those working, with hot meals for those at the bivouac. The weather on the route was generally satisfactory, although there was almost daily drizzle after lunch. On June 11, wet snow fell in the second half of the day, but the team continued working on the route. During the ascent, there was constant radio contact with observers and the rescue team. The rescue team was constantly at the base camp, located-

Photo 2. Route profile from the left. June 17, 1988. 15:00. Lens "Telemar-22" Г=200. Height of the shooting point 3400 m. Distance to the object 600 m. Shooting point 2. Observers were located directly below the route, 1.5 hours' walk from peak 3800.

List of Food Products

Calculated as: 500 g × 6 people × 5 days = 15 kg. Emergency supply: 300 g × 6 people × 1 day = 1.8 kg. Water (emergency supply) 10 l. Total weight of backpacks 96.3 kg.

June 9, 1988. Working hours 9:30. Total 135 m.

June 10, 1988. Working hours 12:00. Total 120 m.

June 11, 1988. Working hours 12:20. Total 244 m.

June 12, 1988. Working hours 11:40. Total 411 m.

Total working hours 45:30. Total length 911 m.