PASSPORT

1. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge.
2. Peak 3850 m via the right edge of the NW wall.
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Height difference 700 m, length 1310 m;

Length of sections:

• 6th category of difficulty — 102 m;
• 5th category of difficulty — 422 m;
• 4th category of difficulty — 150 m.

7. Average steepness of the route — 60°.
8. Number of driven pitons:

9. Number of travel hours — 17, days — 2.
10. Overnight stays: 1st — on a ledge, lying; 2nd — on descent, lying.
11. Participants: Lebedev Gennadiy Igorevich — Master of Sports Portyanko Grigoriy Andreevich — Candidate for Master of Sports
12. Departure to the route — June 30, 1988. Summit — July 1, 1988, Return — July 2, 1988.

Photo of the general view of the summit.

Photo of the route profile.

Description of the ascent route

The team left the base camp on June 30, 1988, at 12:00. At 13:30, they approached the bivouac under the NW wall. At 15:30, they began moving from a large scree ledge, which is located to the right of the base of the NW wall. The route goes from this ledge to the right through a system of inner corners and walls, which alternate with small ledges.

The first 120 m — climbing of IV–V category of difficulty, then 140 m of III–IV category of difficulty. After 3 hours of work, the team reaches the shoulder of the right edge of the NW wall — R12 (large inclined ledge). Overnight stay on the ledge. On the same day, one rope is processed.

From the right part of the ledge (behind the corner), directly up the edge, there is a wide crack intersected by a cornice. 40 m of extremely difficult climbing on aid climbing (large nuts) to a small ledge (R13–R16). On the ledge, there are two bolted pitons.

On July 1, the team continues moving along the route from 9:00. The first 40 m, following the processed rope, are also extremely difficult (R16–R17). The first 80 m from the large ledge are key on the route.

• After another 80 m of climbing through a wide gap and along it — exit to a ledge — R20 (large nuts are used).
• Further movement goes through inner corners (200 m) (R21–R26), which follow one another and are sometimes intersected by small ledges.

A double cornice on the way — is overcome in the center through a small chimney with a plug (R26–R27). Further, moving through inner corners, the team comes under an "arcuate" cornice and moves along it from right to left (R29–R30). Having overcome a few more walls, from right to left, enters an inner corner (80 m), which leads under a huge stone (R31–R34). The stone is bypassed on the left. From under the stone, to the right and up (80 m) — exit to the ridge. Along the ridge, after 250 m, the team reaches the summit at 21:30.

Descent from the summit to the saddle goes:

• to the right of the ridge,
• along ledges,
• movement is parallel to the ridge at a depth of 30–40 m.

Overnight stays are possible on the ledges. On July 2, the team returns to the base camp at 11:00. The descent from the saddle goes down the couloir along the walls of section 4 (80 m).

Characteristics of sections according to the scheme

• R1: 30 m, 45°, III
• R2: 20 m, 10°, II
• R3: 40 m, 50°, IV
• R4: 10 m, 75°, V
• R5: 8 m, 30°, III
• R6: 12 m, 75°, V
• R7: 6 m, 30°, III
• R8: 12 m, 80°, V
• R9: 20 m, 50°, II
• R10: 20 m, 30°, II
• R11: 30 m, 45°, III+
• R12: 80 m, 45°, III
• R13: 10 m, 80°, VI
• R14: 5 m, 95°, VI A3
• R15: 4 m, 80°, VI A3
• R16:
• R17: 4 m, 75°, VI A3
• R18: 40 m, 75°, VI
• R19: 20 m, 70°, V
• R20: 15 m, 85°, VI
• R21: 50 m, 60°, IV
• R22: 20 m, 65°, V
• R23: 30 m, 60°, IV
• R24: 30 m, 75°, V
• R25: 10 m, 65°, IV
• R26: 50 m, 75°, V
• R27: 20 m, 80°, V+
• R28: 80 m, 70°, V
• R29: 10 m, 80°, VI
• R30: 45 m, 70°, V
• R31: 40 m, 70°, V
• R32: 40 m, 70°, V
• R33: 15 m, 75°, V
• R34: 40 m, 15°, III (large solitary stone)
• R35: 10 m, 15°, III+ (large solitary stone)
• R36: 80 m, 40°, II
• R37: 250 m, 30°, II