Paragelmination — 7

Route 2B cat. diff.

The route is easily accessible via a trail that goes from the road, oriented by ribbons hanging on trees. The ascent takes approximately 10–12 minutes. The start of the route is to the left of the ridge (do not confuse with the ridge on which route 1 cat. diff. passes — the far left one on the rock). From there, move towards a tree around which an iron rope is wrapped — organize the first belay (I) there. Move beyond the bend — you will come out to a small platform where:

• a "carrot" (morcovka) is fixed

Paraghelmen — 3

List of Routes to the Summit of Paraghelmen:

1. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraghelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraghelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V

Route 3

Crimea, Paragilmen. "Through the Center of the Wall" Route 4A)

The route goes through the corners of the center of the wall, veering right in the upper third, leading to the "Shovel" summit. The route is significantly more challenging than the classic 3A route. It starts in the same place, but after the first corner, it doesn't go left, instead following the system of internal corners towards the cornice with a white spot underneath. "The Triple through the Chimney" 3A route - passage to the left; "Through the Center of the Wall" 3B (4A) route - passage to the right

Route Description:

0–1. Ascend sloping rocks to the left and enter an internal corner, then continue up the corner to a narrow chimney.

• Bypass the chimney by traversing to the right
• Then ascend
• Return to the left, into the system of corners (It's possible to go straight through the chimney, but it's significantly harder.) Continue up the corner to a ledge with a belay station. There are bolts and pitons. 43 m IV (10 m V)

Sokol Mt., "Gammi Wall" route (1B)

General view Notes:

1. The route is good because the sun is in full force only after noon, and it is also well protected from winds that sometimes blow off the routes along the main wall.
2. Since the route in the middle part passes through a series of rain gullies, passing it in the rain is dangerous - water can carry stones.
3. Helmets are mandatory on the route due to the presence of loose rubble in the upper part.

Sokol — 46

Via the bastion in the eastern part of the southern wall, 1B cat. diff.[№5]

(A. Brynza — S. Brynza, 1994) R0–R2: 60–80 m, 4 hours. Up to the left along an oblique crack to a tree, then along a ledge to an internal corner and up it to the left — exit to the middle of the bastion. Stations on trees. R2–R4: 70–80 m. Simple climbing to the left and up towards the ridge.

• Station R3 on a tree
• Station R4 on the ridge (on a bridge between the ridge and the wall) R4–R5: 35 m. Simple climbing, first 10 m up and to the right to a crack, and then 25 m to the right and up to a tree. R5–R6: 20 m. Traverse 10 m along a ledge to the right to a dry tree, and then up to the left along a crack — exit to a plateau. Station on the plateau.

Recommended equipment:

Crimea, So­kol mountain. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B

So­kol. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B (A. Brynza — S. Brynza, 1994)

Another name for it is "Pol­torush­ka" (respectively, different first ascenders, 1970) Time to complete the route for an average team is 1.5–2.5 hours. So­kol. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B

Technical description of the route:

R0–R2: 60–80 m, 4c, then:

• left — up the diagonal crack to a tree
• then along the ledge to the inner corner

Tourist Encyclopedia

Ridge Traverse 2A cat. dif. (Sokol)

Ridge Traverse. View from the side of Novy Svet village. The route is on the border of the 4th sector of Sokol mountain. The description is given according to the "Guidebook" on alpine routes of Crimea. Sokol mountain.

Approach Path

The approaches are quite simple: from the pocket near the road, above the Bay of Love, up the path. (Actually, it's not even a path, but a whole road! — ed.)

Route Description

The landmark for the start of the route is 15 m to the left along the ledge from the memorial plaque (start of

Sokol. "Grebnevaya dvojka" Route 2A (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 50–60 m
• Standard set of cams and nuts
• 10–12 quickdraws
• 2–3 large and 2 medium slings The route is long but very beautiful and relatively safe from rockfall. "Grebnevaya dvojka" Route 2A and neighboring area

Sokol Mountain "Present set" marush (big walk) 2A

Author: Gennady Ivanov In June 2012, my wife Anna and I visited Sudak and climbed Sokol Mountain via the "Present set" marush, rated 2A-2B. Marush is simpler than Vilka or PK in Foros. So, most likely, its category is 2A. My comments on the description (in italics) R0–R1 35 m: 5c+

• Belay is organized using trees and, if necessary, personal anchors.
• Station is on a bolt and a tree, on a small ledge. The length of the section is 45 m; the first bolt is encountered at 35 m, but the station is 10 m higher. R1–R2: 25 m, 5b — simple climbing with easy belay organization using trees and personal anchors if needed.

Sokol - 52

Muchacha * 2B cat. diff.[№2]

(A. Kuzmitsky ­ — E. Khvorost, November 2005) R0­–R1: 50 m, 5B. The start coincides with the right double, then left to the inner corner with a crack, belay is easily organized on the entire rope, be careful when passing the oblique crack (15 m) ­ — destroyed edge. Station on the upper juniper bush on a comfortable ledge + own elements. R1­–­R2: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up, along a vaguely expressed crack, then along the slab up to the right on a bush (pa­ral­le­lo­gram to the double on the right), 3­–­4 ­m before the bush — bolted piton, from it up 8­–­9 ­m to the station under an oblique hanging block. Station on bolted piton + small nuts. R2­–­R3: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up the slab to a tree, and then a beautiful long