Sokol - 52

Muchacha * 2B cat. diff.[№2]

(A. Kuzmitsky ­ — E. Khvorost, November 2005)

R0­–R1: 50 m, 5B. The start coincides with the right double, then left to the inner corner with a crack, belay is easily organized on the entire rope, be careful when passing the oblique crack (15 m) ­ — destroyed edge. Station on the upper juniper bush on a comfortable ledge + own elements.

R1­–­R2: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up, along a vaguely expressed crack, then along the slab up to the right on a bush (pa­ral­le­lo­gram to the double on the right), 3­–­4 ­m before the bush — bolted piton, from it up 8­–­9 ­m to the station under an oblique hanging block. Station on bolted piton + small nuts.

R2­–­R3: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up the slab to a tree, and then a beautiful long traverse under the "ram's foreheads" to the left, along the crack with convenient organization of belay. Station on a bolted piton + own. This station coincides with the station of the fourth rope of "Khu­chu" route.

R3­–R4: 25­–30 m, 4B. Left up to a shelf, along it exit to the plateau. Station on the plateau.

Rope 50­–55 m, standard set of nuts and cams (without cams — tight!)

  • 10­–12 quickdraws
  • 2­–3 large slings
  • Overall impression:

Mucha­cha — means "girl" in Spanish.

A short double pitch climb, with a fairly good level of climbing. Time for an average team to complete is 1.5­–2 hours.

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Footnotes

    • Mucha­cha — means "girl" in Spanish.

Sources

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