Crimea, So­kol mountain. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B

So­kol. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B (A. Brynza — S. Brynza, 1994)

Another name for it is "Pol­torush­ka" (respectively, different first ascenders, 1970)

Time to complete the route for an average team is 1.5–2.5 hours.

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So­kol. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B

Technical description of the route:

R0–R2: 60–80 m, 4c, then:

  • left — up the diagonal crack to a tree
  • then along the ledge to the inner corner
  • up it — left, exit to the middle of the bastion

Stations on trees.

R2–R4: 80 m, simple climbing left — up towards the ridge, R3 station on a tree, R4 station on the ridge (on the bridge between the ridge and the wall).

R4–R5: 35 m, simple climbing, first up and right 10 m to a crack, and then 25 m right — up to a tree.

R5–R6: 20 m, traverse 10 m along the ledge right to a dry tree, and then left — up the crack — exit to the plateau, station on the plateau.

Recommended equipment:

  • 50 m rope
  • standard set of nuts and cams
  • 10–12 quickdraws
  • 3 large and 3–4 medium slings.

Source: alpinist.biz

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Sources

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