Mshatka-Kaya — 12. «Kaskad»

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Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: V, A2 Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2006 Number of pitches: 9 Length: 370 m

The route goes through the center of the wall, crossing a series of ledges, with a logical transition to the left in the upper part. Further, the route coincides with the «Strelka» route.

The approach to the route is from the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie Vorota; a trail leads to the wall. Follow the trail, then the scree, generally left and up, to approach the lower belt of rocks. Through the rocks of the lower belt, left and up, choosing the optimal path, reach a ledge. Then traverse along the ledges to the left with a slight gain in height.

  • R0–R1: 50 m
  • Up through simple and moderately difficult rocks
  • General direction is towards the left edge of a small depression (cirque)
  • Belay station on a ledge (III)

R1–R2: 40 m. From the station, up through slabs with intermittent cracks, protection is mainly pitons. Station in an internal corner. (IV+)

R2–R3: 50 m. From the internal corner, exit left onto an indistinct ridge and follow it up; after 30 m, move right into an internal corner, then simple climbing through the corner. (30 m IV+; 20 m II)

R3–R4: 40 m. Up through the corner, then left onto a ledge. Station on 2 bolts. (III)

R4–R5: 30 m. From the station, up and left through a slab. (Relief and hole skyhooks; 2 bolts available)

From the 2nd bolt, up and right, direction towards the right edge of a ledge:

  • skyhooks
  • pitons

Behind the ledge, cracks appear; climb up through them. Station on a small ledge in front of an internal corner. There's a bolt. (V+A2)

R5–R6: 30 m. From the station, climb up into an overhang. Then onto the itos (anchors, pitons, stoppers). Station behind the overhang. There's a bolt. (V+A2)

R6–R7: 40 m. From the station, 2 m to the right, then up through a slab with climbing, enter an internal corner and climb up and left through it, transitioning to the left side of a buttress.

Station in an internal corner. (10 m V; 20 m IV; 10 m III) Further, the route coincides with the «Strelka» route.

R7–R8: 50 m. Up through corners and cracks overgrown with grass; loose rocks are encountered. Station on a tree. (III)

R8–R9: 40 m. Up through an internal corner to reach the yayla. (15 m III; 15 m II)

Sources

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