Mshatka-Kaya — 11
Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" — blue line on the photograph
Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" (5A)
Author: Aleksandr Lavrinenko («Odessit»), Odessa
A well-known route, climbed in the ancient times. Currently, many bolt hanger hooks are in disrepair, but the route is fully passable.
You can approach the route from the Filatova contrefort or directly from the road via simple rocks.
The route starts from an inner corner leading to the base of the "strelka" (IV+). Then:
- up the crack,
- to the top of the "strelka" (V),
- belay station on new bolt hangers.
Further up the slab, belay — bolt hangers, sometimes you have to use old bolts with torn ears, putting a thin cable on them. After 10 m, the relief becomes richer, you can belay with nuts and hooks (V+). Belay station on bolt hangers.
From the belay station, traverse left — exit to simple rocks (II–III), and up them 150 m to the summit.
Route description by sections
- R1–R2 Simple rocks, gentle slabs about 200 meters (40–60 m, I–II)
- R1–R2 — Steep inner corner. Belay — nuts, cams. (45 m, 70°, IV+)
- R2–R3 — Steep crack, nuts, cams. (40 m, 80°, V)
- R3–R4 — Steep wall. Difficult climbing, местами on aid climbing, belay — bolts, hooks, nuts. (45 m, 85°, V+ A2)
R4–R5. Simple rocks (150 m, 60°, II)