Merdven-Kayas — 9. "Easy Flirt"* — 385 m, VI, A3+, F6c, E4. Description

August 5, 2013 The route was ascended in a classic style, from bottom to top, without prior reconnaissance or processing from the top. The thread of the "Easy Flirt" route is indicated in white. Massif: Merdven-Kayas. This is one of the few massifs of great length in Crimea where there are still unclimbed main logical lines.

• Route length: 385 m
• Maximum complexity of free climbing sections: F6c, E4
• Maximum complexity of artificial climbing sections: A3(+)

Merdven-Kayas — 10. “Made­ra Krymskaya” (380 m, 5B, F6b+, E3, A2) — No bolts.

May 19, 2009 Yura Kruglov is climbing the second rope of the route. The second rope is a song. On Sunday, May 17, we ascended a new line on Merdven-Kayas (10 minutes walk along the upper road to the east from Chertova Lestnitsa). The route is “Made­ra Krymskaya”. It was because of this drink that, finding myself among stitched abstainers on Saturday evening and unnoticedly drinking it alone, I had to deviate from the previously planned line of the intended route in its upper part the next day. But even as it turned out, the “Madera” route more than justified my expectations.

Approach to the route, history of the place, descent, and our recommendations

The lower part of Merdven-Kayas wall was a popular training spot for climbers back when the upper road wasn't yet called the upper road. Buses between Sevastopol and Yalta would speed by on it. It's hard to imagine now... Among climbers, the lower part of the wall was known as “Khergiani rock.” The approach from the upper road to the foot of the wall takes a few minutes. These minutes can be shortened by car via a dirt road branching off the asphalt towards the wall. The road leads to a clearing with a great campsite. From the campsite to the start of the routes, it's less than a minute of slow walking.

Author: Yura Kryglov, Sevastopol "Madera Krymskaya" (380 m, 5B, F6b+, E3, A2) — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy. No bolts On Sunday, May 17, we completed a new line on Merdven-Kayasy (10 minutes walk along the upper road to the east from Chertova Lestnitsa). The route is called "Madera Krymskaya". Yura Kruglov is climbing the second rope of the route. The second rope is a song. It was because of this drink that, after finding myself in the company of stitched abstainers on Saturday evening and unnoticedly drinking it alone, I had to deviate from the pre-planned line of the intended route the next day in its upper part. But even as it turned out, the "Madera" route more than justified my expectations.

Approaching the route, history of the place, descent, and our recommendations

The lower part of Merdven-Kayasy wall was a popular training spot for rock climbers back when the upper road wasn't yet called upper. Buses on the Sevastopol-Yalta route would speed by on it. It's hard to imagine now... Among rock climbers, the lower part of the wall was known as "Khergiani Rock". The approach from the upper road to the foot of the wall takes a few minutes. But you can shorten even these few minutes by driving a car on a dirt road that branches off the asphalt towards the wall. The road leads to a clearing with an excellent camping spot. It takes less than a minute of slow walking from the campsite to the start of the routes.

Author: Anatoly Geniush, Sevastopol. Description of the first ascent of the route "Doroga uehala" 5B cat. on Merdven-Kaya, S-E wall, to the right of Hergiani rock. The group consisting of A. Geniush, V. Kudryavtsev, A. Lyashko, on March 29, 2008. The start of the route is under the sparse trees to the left of the large inner corner - a chimney in the middle part of the South-East wall. The first rope is an easy climb of 3 cat. upwards and to the right to the last right tree (40 m). Further (second rope) - difficult climbing along an oblique, heavily destroyed crack:

• up and to the right 20 m;
• move to the right 3 m;
• straight up through the cleft 3 m - entrance to the inner corner, turning into a chimney of medium width. At the bottom of the chimney - an uncomfortable station on закладках and stone corks. Further climbing through a narrow, overhanging chimney, turning into an overhanging inner corner with a cleft. Large friends are needed for protection. At the end of the corner, where the cleft strongly overhangs:

Mer­ven-Ka­ya­sy — 4. «Se­vas­to­pol-230», VI cat. diff., A3, F6c, Е4.

First ascenders:

• Yuri Kруг­lov (Se­vas­to­pol)
• Vlad­imir Odo­yev (Se­vas­to­pol) Date: August 6, 2013 The route was ascended from bottom to top in the classic style. Climbing hours: 20. Pho­tographs of the rou­te sections «Se­vas­to­pol–230», the ap­proach path and gen­eral in­for­ma­tion can be found here. The rou­te thread in not very good we­ather: The «Se­vas­to­pol–230» route — view from below

Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

"Sevastopol-230" — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy

The impetus for the new route was the first ascent of the "Trudnosti" route on Merdven-Kayasy, which starts from the sap. The angle dimensions at Forosskiy Kant. (a virgin vertical route on it) The weather was constantly changing, while sitting in the wardroom, sometimes with Oleg. Patience to sit PС (skis are provided) on Saturday, March 30, we planned to pass in April, but the weather was pouring rain until then. The attempt to climb PС took place. And finally, on Saturday, April 6, the weather presented a gift — we climbed and descended! The route turned out to be complex, interesting, very logical, beautiful, and memorable. To date, it is the most challenging route on Merdven-Kayasy. Not a single piton "for passage" was needed, but we equipped the stations along the way with stationary bolts from Kong and Fixe (with rings). In the upper part, the route connects with the "Bezzavetnyy" route. The terrain everywhere allows for natural protection. Route characteristics:

• Tense climbing with a transition to artificial technical climbing (a.t.c.) and back to free climbing — a characteristic feature of the route.

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

«Truba»

I never thought I'd become a mountaineer; I wanted a quiet, peaceful life. I was quietly saving up for my wedding, but my dear left me. And then I decided not to waste the money and bought mountaineering gear instead. And here I am again, on a train, heading somewhere. This time it's Crimea, Parkovoe village, Morcheka mountain. I'm a very ambitious person, and when I set my mind on something, I go all out. I might initially overestimate my abilities, but what always reassures me is that I check them, just in case. Enough, not enough? :) So, the goal is set:

• Warm up with the Truba route,
• Then on to Machombo.

First day.

We arrived in Sevastopol around 11:00, bought some food and wine, and took a minibus to Parkovoe village. After getting off at the stop, we asked for directions and headed towards the linear house. My first deep impression was the quarry and the excavations. The only thing that came to mind was a phrase from the movie Terminator: "And the machines rose from the ashes of nuclear fires." All around us were:

• Abandoned machinery,

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/