Author: Anatoly Geniush, Sevastopol. Description of the first ascent of the route "Doroga uehala" 5B cat. on Merdven-Kaya, S-E wall, to the right of Hergiani rock.

The group consisting of A. Geniush, V. Kudryavtsev, A. Lyashko, on March 29, 2008. The start of the route is under the sparse trees to the left of the large inner corner - a chimney in the middle part of the South-East wall.

The first rope is an easy climb of 3 cat. upwards and to the right to the last right tree (40 m).

Further (second rope) - difficult climbing along an oblique, heavily destroyed crack:

  • up and to the right 20 m;
  • move to the right 3 m;
  • straight up through the cleft 3 m - entrance to the inner corner, turning into a chimney of medium width.

At the bottom of the chimney - an uncomfortable station on закладках and stone corks.

Further climbing through a narrow, overhanging chimney, turning into an overhanging inner corner with a cleft. Large friends are needed for protection.

At the end of the corner, where the cleft strongly overhangs:

  • move 1.5 m to the right
  • along a sounding flake, exit to the right onto a ledge

Climbing through the chimney and flake - 5c-6b.

Further:

  • along the inner corner 10 m up
  • exit to the right onto a small shelf

Climbing of medium difficulty. From the shelf, there is no need to go to the right.

From here, a semi-pendulum move to the left onto the left crack in the vertical inner corner. This move cannot be done without a hook.

Along the corner:

  • 2 m on ladders
  • further, difficult, then medium difficulty climbing 10 m to a small green juniper
  • from it, to the right, exit onto a shelf

Here is a station on закладках + juniper.

4th rope - move along the shelf to the right 5 m and then straight up with difficult climbing through a groove with a slit filled with earth (6A) 15 m, then along a cleft, which at the end overhangs another 12 m to the exit beyond the ridge (5B, 6A). Then, along simple rocks, a transition to the left upwards 8 m to the top of the flake - контрфорса, on which there is a station.

The 5th rope goes to the right - up along a grassy, oblique shelf, then up along a weakly expressed cleft, then slightly to the right under an overhanging stone 30 m (4B - 5A). Further to the right - up along a vertical, oblique cleft 3 m (5A), exit onto a shelf. Further to the right - up along a weakly expressed shelf - simple climbing to a weakly expressed mulda.

The last rope - to the right, bypassing the vertical wall, then up and to the left with simple climbing 30 m, exit onto the yayla.img-0.jpeg

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Sources

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