Ascent Passport

I. Rock class.

2. Western Caucasus.
3. Mt. Dombay Eastern (3950) via the center of the North Face (Gubanov's route).
4. 6B category of complexity.
5. Height difference 1460 m, route length 1710 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity 892 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, average steepness and height differences of sections: Lower wall 60° (2490-2950), central wall 78° (2950-3390), edge 50° (3390-3670), summit tower 70° (3670-3950).
6. Pitons hammered: rock screw-in, ice screws

7. Climbing hours: 37 hours (3 days).
8. Two overnight stays on comfortable platforms.
9. Leader — Zhuravlev Viktor Vasilyevich MS

Team members:

• Erofeev Sergey Andreyevich CMS
• Pustolyakov Alexander Borisovich CMS
• Fedkov Alexander Veniaminovich CMS

10. Coach Galkin Sergey Petrovich.

11. Departure to the route August 12, 1987, summit August 14, 1987, return August 16, 1987.

12. AUSPB "Elbrus". As part of the Caucasus Championship of the territorial administration of AUSPB

General photo of the summit. August 17, 1986. 2 hours. Camera "Zenit-E", lens "Helios-44" F = 58 mm. Distance 1 km. Height of the shooting point 2750 m.

Protocol

of the разбор of the ascent made by the team of AUSPB "Elbrus" on Mt. Dombay Eastern via the center of the North Face, 6B category of complexity.

Present:

• releasing officer, deputy director for educational and sports work Stavnitser A.M.
• team coach, head of the rescue team of the "Elbrus" alpine camp Galkin S.P.
• representative of the CSP of the Central Caucasus Bolonin V.P.
• team members, instructors of the "Elbrus" alpine camp:
  • Zhuravlev V.V. — captain
  • Erofeev S.A. — deputy captain
  • Fedkov A.V. — participant
  • Pustolyakov A.B. — participant
• observation group:
  • Zhikharev S.I.
  • Korneychuk A.A.
  • Kharaldin A.V.
  • Usas V.I.

Speakers:

Zhuravlev V.V. — the team of the base thoroughly prepared for the Caucasus Championship for three shifts. Team members had completed two ascents on routes of 5B category of complexity by the time of departure to the route.

The team had almost the same composition in:

• Caucasus Championship 1986 in the technical class (Mt. Chatyn Main via the East Face 5B category of complexity, first ascent) — took first place;
• RSFSR Championship 1986 in the technical class (Shchurovsky's route on the Bastion of the North Face 5B category of complexity) — also took first place.

For the route on Mt. Dombay Eastern, 6B category of complexity, a consultation was obtained from Bakursky L.A. — a team member of the first ascent in 1971 and a consultation from Korneychuk A.A.'s team, which passed the route in 1986 as part of the Caucasus Championship.

On August 10, 1987, the team arrived at the CSP of the Western Caucasus. On August 11, 1987, radio communication issues were agreed upon, and by 17:00 the team and the observation group ascended to the foot of the route.

On August 12, 1987, at 5:30 the team departed from the bivouac to the route. At 14:30 the team reached section R12 (standard overnight stay). Due to deteriorating weather conditions, fog, light rain — it was decided to continue processing the route further, but to set up an overnight stay at this location. During processing, three ropes of 45 m were hung.

On August 13, 1987: departure from the overnight stay at 7:30 in dense fog, rain. Passing key sections R16-R24 became more complicated. The team reached section R24 (standard overnight stay). Weather is bad, sleet, rain. It was decided to continue processing the route further and organize an overnight stay. Four ropes were hung during processing.

On August 14, 1987, departure at 7:30. At 12:30 the team reached section R34 (third control point, standard overnight stay), and at 20:00 the last rope team reached the summit. Weather throughout the day was bad (dense fog) with a sharp deterioration towards the end of the day: rain, sleet, snow, wind. The team set up an overnight stay under the summit. A severe snowstorm developed at night, and about 50 cm of snow fell, frost, very cold.

On August 15, 1987, at 8:00 after radio communication, the group began descending along the ridge to the shoulder. At 11:00 the group was on the shoulder, radio communication (last radio communication with observers under the wall). From here, communication was also established with a pair of observers on the southern side of the Dombay Pass. Further descent was carried out along steep snowy slopes of the southern face of Eastern Dombay towards the "cave". Snowstorm, dense fog, visibility 5-15 meters. To avoid being swept away, it was decided to set up an overnight stay at the standard bivouac on the descent at 15:00.

Weather conditions:

• Snowstorm
• Dense fog
• Visibility 5-15 meters

On August 16, 1987, at 8:00 the weather was clear, frosty. The team continued the descent and by 12:00 descended to the glacier through the "cave", organizing five rappels. Met with observers. Through the Dombay Pass, the team together with observers descended to the Dombay glade at 18:30. The control time was checked via radio communication.

On the route: the route is very strong, lengthy, no rope allows for "rest". The route of 6B category of complexity on Mt. B. Nakhar loses in both technical complexity and length (I passed this route in 1984 as part of preparation for the USSR Championship). Complicated weather conditions forced adjustments to the tactical time plan during the ascent. The route is complex in terms of organizing belays, stations. The terrain on the sections is underdeveloped. The upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed. The entire route was passed with free climbing. The route is logical throughout its entire length.

On the participants: I believe that the participants are excellently prepared for this ascent. Erofeev S.A. and Pustolyakov A.B. worked particularly well as first on the rope in complicated weather conditions. The passage of all sections by all team members, except for the first, was organized with top-rope belay or double rope. Belay for the first was organized with a double rope using a standard shock absorber.

Bivouacs:

• the first bivouac was comfortable for four people,
• the second — two convenient shelves 2x2 people,
• the third — comfortable, four people,
• the fourth — on the descent, comfortable for four people.

Galkin S.P. — were there any falls or injuries on the route? Zhuravlev V.V. — there were no falls or injuries. Stavnitser A.M. — were there any passages of this route this season?

Zhuravlev V.V. — no, we removed last year's notes.

Galkin S.P. — how reliable was the organization of radio communication and visual observation?

Zhuravlev V.V. — there was not a single missed radio communication with all correspondents. Visual observation took place only in the first half of the day — August 12, 1987, and on the descent — August 16, 1987.

Fedkov A.V. — I would like to note the good preparation and organization of food on the route: individual rations, hot meals in the morning and evening. I am passing a route of this difficulty for the first time, there is nothing to compare it to. The reliability of the belay was felt throughout, it is pleasant to work with this team.

Pustolyakov A.B. — despite the bad weather, the ascent was very enjoyable, especially the microclimate within the team. Throughout the ascent, there was a feeling of unobtrusive but clear leadership, and timely tactical decisions were made. The rocks were very slippery, often covered with lichen soaked with moisture, which reduced the speed of passage.

Bolonin V.P. — how passable is this route in bad weather?

Pustolyakov A.B. — passing the key parts of the route in bad weather is quite problematic. In addition to discomfort, the passage time should increase.

Erofeev S.A. — before the ascent, a thorough selection of equipment was carried out, all the latest techniques were tested on previous ascents. The organization of the ascent process was liked: clear transfer of equipment, no delays in the departure of the first, no downtime for participants. Careful selection of bivouac equipment and food allowed us to avoid pulling out backpacks.

Stavnitser A.M. — structure of the rocks on key sections?

Erofeev S.A. — key sections are very complex: overhangs, a small number of uncomfortable holds, slippery lichen — require high technical preparation for free climbing, otherwise, ITO, screw-in pitons. Such complexity has not been encountered on routes of this length before, especially in such weather conditions (frostbite on hands and feet).

Stavnitser A.M. — despite the weather conditions, the team passed the route at a fairly high speed, observing the rules of mountaineering and safety measures. Participation and leadership: to be defended.

Bolonin V.P. — I believe that the team passed a strong, beautiful route, observing safety measures. The team's tactical actions are considered correct.

Releasing officer A.M. Stavnitser Representative of CSP V.P. Bolonin Secretary A.V. Kharaldin