Fig. 43
1. Ascent to the summit Main Domбай-Ulgen (4040 m) from Domбай Saddle (via the northern edge) — 3Б category of difficulty (Fig. 43 and 44, left)
From Domбай clearing along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptysh overnight stay. From Domбай to Ptysh overnight stay 3–4 hours.
From Ptysh overnight stay along the trail to the left — up to the left-bank moraine of Domбай glacier. Along the moraine to the rocks to the left onto the snow and through the "barany lby" to the right-bank moraine (glacier collapse is possible!). Then exit to the left side of the glacier. Further ascent along the left side of the glacier, after 300 m transition to the right onto the rocky ridge, along the scree and destroyed rocks into a narrow crumbly couloir and along it to the Domбай Saddle. From Ptysh overnight stay 4 hours.
From the saddle upwards (in bundles!) along the scree and несложным rocks to the steep 20-meter ascent, which is bypassed to the right along steep inclined plates (hook insurance!). Further along the right side of the ridge to the yellow ascent, which is passed first from the left, and then from the right. Further path along the ridge.
Further:
- Subsequent two ascents are bypassed along the shelf to the right
- Then movement along the ridge to the plates
- Along the plates to the summit (hook insurance!)
From the saddle — 5 hours. Descent along the ascent route. Descent from the yellow ascent — by rappel.
Descent from the summit to Domбай Saddle — 3 hours, from Domбай Saddle to Ptysh overnight stay — 2–3 hours.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group — not more than 8 people.
- Initial bivouac — Domбай Saddle.
- Time of exit from bivouac — not later than 5:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×30 m; b) expendable repschnur — 3 m; c) rock hooks — 6–7; d) ice hooks — 2; e) rock hammer — 1; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
- Places of possible bivouacs: 1st — under the plates on the ridge; 2nd — on the summit; 3rd — on Domбай Saddle.
Fig. 44
