Fig. 46

5. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen via the north-eastern wall — category 5B difficulty (Fig. 46)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail via Chuchkhur Pass, descend into Bu-Ulgen gorge, and then to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac.

• From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7-8 hours.

Alternative option. By car via Gonachkhir to Bu-Ulgen glade, and then follow the trail to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 3-4 hours.

From the bivouac, initially follow the moraine, then:

• right — up the scree
• further up the slope of the avalanche cone (steepness 40-45°) — exit to the wall rocks
• traverse through the bergschrund
• exit to the steep rocky slope (rocks resembling sheep's foreheads)
• ascent up the steep rocks of the counterfortress of the northern wall of Bu-Ulgen "saw" (in the middle and upper parts of the counterfortress — ledges overgrown with grass).

300-320 meters up and 30-35 meters left of the counterfortress, there is a bivouac site. From the initial bivouac — 8-9 hours.

Further, follow the несложным скалам к наклонному камину. По камину (пробки в камине обходятся слева) 60 м вверх (страховка крючьевая!), then follow the yellow rocks and then along the ledges to the belt of black rocks. Up the sheer, and in the upper part — overhanging wall of black rocks belt:

• ascent 30 meters right-up
• further up the sheer 2-meter internal angle to the inclined ledge (first person goes without a backpack, insurance is крючьевая only!)

From the ledge, traverse right-up along the inclined smooth slabs above the belt of black rocks to the Double snow patch under the tooth on the eastern wall (insurance is крючьевая only!). Above the snow patch — bivouac site. From the second bivouac — 10-11 hours.

From the bivouac site, right — up 200-220 meters (крючьевой insurance!) along the smoothed rocks and slabs, then along the ledges to the rocky выступ in the wall. Traverse the выступ from the right, ascent up the 30-meter sheer wall (крючьевой insurance!) and further up — left 200-220 meters along the slabs and stepped rocks to the wet inclined ledge under the snow patch. Along the ledge left — 80-meter ascent. Exit to the main ridge (крючьевой insurance!) — bivouac site. From the third bivouac — 8-9 hours.

From the ridge, descend south 10-12 meters to a ledge, then along the left side of the ridge up the wall of the ascent straight up 80 meters (steep, местами vertical slabs, insurance is крючьевая only!) and exit right to the heavily rugged ridge. Along the ridge, exit to the saddle under the summit of the tower of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen.

Further path see in the description of ascent to Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern wall or traverse of Dombay-Ulgen massif.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — green glade under the north-eastern wall.
3. Time of exit from bivouac — 4-5 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×40 meters; b) expendable repschnur — 25-30 meters; c) rock hooks — 25-30; d) ice hooks — 2; e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 14-16; g) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1st — as indicated in the route; 2nd — before the rocky выступ in the wall.