M26. Kirpich from Dalar Pass

(combined route, 1B category of complexity, first ascent by M. Lepnev, 1937) Approach the slopes of Dalar Pass via the Zapadny Dalar Glacier. Ascend to the pass via a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which can be traversed using a bridge or a gap. From the bivouac on the Dalar plateau — 2–4 hours, depending on the condition of the bergschrund. From the pass, head right along the long snowy ridge, sometimes along the boundary between snow and rocks, to a large snowy rise on the ridge. At the top of the rise, on the rocks, there is a large geodetic cairn. From here, traverse to the left side of the ridge and approach a snow-ice funnel. Do not ascend to its upper edge facing the Myrdy Glacier due to cornices! Cross the funnel in the middle of its slope or along the bottom if it is free of snow. Beyond the funnel, ascend a steep snowy or icy slope, leaving vertically standing gray rock blocks on the left, to a snowy ridge, which leads to the snowy-scree dome of the summit. From the pass — 3 hours. The descent follows the ascent route until the pass and takes 2 hours. To v. Maly Dalar Dalar Pass 26 Kirpich

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

1. Ascent along the ridge from Dalar Pass — Category 1B difficulty
2. Ascent along the ridge from Mordy Pass — Category 3B difficulty
3. Ascent via the southeast wall — Category 5B difficulty

Route Description to the Summit

From the "Uzunkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the old koshi. Then cross the bridge to the left bank and follow the path to the large gray moraine of the Dalar Glacier. Along the moraine crest to its middle part, via grassy slopes and scree (sharp descent), then along the path left-down to the terraces, and again onto the moraine (large boulders). At the end of the moraine, exit onto the glacier and, crossing it to the right, ascend the slopes (in teams!) to Dalar Pass. Cross the bergschrund under the pass via the bridge (belay!) and then ascend the snow to the pass. Beyond the pass (from the south) lies a rocky island — a bivouac site. From the camp, it takes 6–7 hours. From the bivouac, return to the pass and move left onto the snowy, partially steep ridge. Continue along the boundary between snow and rock to a large rocky ascent, and climb to the right onto the left part of the ridge and along it to the ice-snow col (belay!). From the col, ascend the steep snowy slope to the snowy ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit takes 4.5–5 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac via the ascent route takes 2.5 hours. When descending, pay attention to belaying when crossing the col — to the left are cornices, to the right is a snowy funnel!

Recommendations for Climbers

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff. From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp. From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac. From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours. Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes. Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes. The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours. Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Kirpich peak 3744 m, right part of the Western wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 850 m
6. Pitons hammered for belaying:
   • rock pitons — 32 pcs.
   • bolt pitons — 0
   • ice pitons — 0

M29. Brick via the Western Wall along the gullies

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by G. Sedov's team, 1969) The ascent to the plateau of the Myrdy Glacier is described in route M16. Move along the glacier to beneath the snowy slopes at the center of the western wall. The right-hand end of the wall "diamond" with black streaks on completely smooth walls, topped with an oblique series of cornices, is the landmark for the route's entrance. To the right of the cornices on the wall is a huge gully (do not enter — loose rocks!). In the next, narrower gully, on its right side, stands a separate rock resembling an enormous bottle with a neck tilted to the left — this is the landmark for the route's entrance. Below, to the right of the "bottle," are two rock formations forming the bases of counterforts-ribs ("gates"). Between them is a narrow snowy "tie." The left counterfort is the lower part of the large wall with black streaks, and the right one is the wall of the gully through which the lower part of the route passes. Under the right part of the gully's wall is a large rantkluft that narrows at the narrowest part of the "gates." Ascend from the rantkluft up the steep snowy slope to the start of the rocks. On the right side of the grey rocks (this is the lower part of the gully), reach the R1 ledge. From here, ascend via a cleft to a small ledge beneath a short rib — the edge of the R3 gully (monolithic climbing with small holds). Landmarks for further movement are:

• to the right above — an enormous, sharply protruding vertical rib-corner;
• to the left — the edge of the large gully.

Report

of the Sverdlovsk Regional Committee of Physical Culture and Sports team on the ascent to the summit of Kirpich (3800 m) via the NW wall in the USSR mountaineering championship. Category of technically complex ascents. Team coach and captainE. Sogrin Sverdlovsk 1969 Kirpich and the ascent route via the NW wall The radiostations were not available to the team or the camp due to a lack of power supply.

6. Team composition and technique for overcoming complex sections

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass.
3. Ascent route — Kirpich Peak (3300 m) via the North face.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1050 (face — 700), average steepness — 47° (face — 67°), length of complex section — 160 m + 120 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 226, ice — none, bolt pitons — none.
6. Total climbing hours — 39.
7. Number of bivouacs — 3 (2 on the face): on ledges, in tents, snow present.
8. Team name — Team of Leningrad Regional Council of DSO "Zenit".
9. Team members: Ivan Yakovlevich Shestipalov — Master of Sports, leader; Boris Vasilyevich Gladkikh — Candidate for Master of Sports, Eduard Andreyevich Oshe — Candidate for Master of Sports, Vladimir Ivanovich Popov — Candidate for Master of Sports.

Report

ON ASCENDING KIRPICH PEAK VIA THE NORTH-WEST FACE, CATEGORY 5A ROUTE BY THE KAIS MPEI ALPCLUB TEAM FROM AUGUST 13 TO AUGUST 15, 2022

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Proskurin S.G., 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Troitskiy N.V., 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Kutkin S.A.
1.4	Organization	KAIS MPEI
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Ascent Description

On July 13, the group, having completed preparations, left alpl Ulлу-Тау for alpl Uzunkol and arrived at their destination in the evening of July 14. July 15. After receiving the "start," the team headed to the wall of Kirpich, set up a base camp, dropped off some of their gear, and returned to Uzunkol the same day. July 16. The group retrieved the rest of their gear and, along with observers, moved to the base camp. They arrived under the wall in the first half of the day. The base camp was established on a rocky island within a 50-minute walk from the start of the route. This location was the most convenient and safe from rocks, which in the morning, when the crust was still frozen, rolled down to all the rock outcrops closer to the wall. The condition of all participants was excellent. Climbing preparation was scheduled for the morning. The duo, Zadorozhny — Rasspopov, were relieved of all bivouac chores and were put to bed early. They had serious work ahead. July 17. Day 1 of the assault, processing day! Early in the morning, the climbers headed under the wall. Their figures could be seen moving up the chimney. The weather was excellent! It was clear that the team was making their way up the chimney by climbing and advancing relatively quickly. The day passed unnoticed. The climbers returned to base camp. In 11 hours, they managed to cover a distance of 185 meters and hang ropes! This was a good start, especially since ladders were not used throughout this path, and a logical exit to the "otkol" via a fissure-chimney was visible above. The processed section was a narrow, inclined chimney formed by a giant rock outcropping detaching from the wall, sometimes disappearing and turning into walls.

«Kirpich»

(Classified as 5B+1 cat. Protocol №187 from 27.10.1961)

Via South Face

Combined team of Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society “Trud”

Coach Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — G.P. Kolenov, Team Leader Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu.I. Chernosliven Tourist Club, reading room 2764 Moscow, 1960