Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff.

From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp.

From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac.

From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours.

Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes.

Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes.

The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours.

Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.

Equipment for a group of 4:

• rope - 2 × 30 m;
• rock pitons - 5 pcs.; carabiners - 8 pcs.; hammers - 2 pcs.;
• expendable cordelette - 2 m; crampons for each participant depending on the state of the snowy slope.

Elevation gain - 650 m. From camp to camp - 2 days. Number of pitons used - 13 pcs.

Group leader - Rejnix A. - 1st sports category; participants - climbers - 1-2 sports categories.

Note: The time for the route is confirmed by repeated ascents. For all subsequent groups, the average number of pitons will be 4-5 pcs.

ROUTE 3A VIA THE "NECKTIE"