Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

1. Ascent along the ridge from Dalar Pass — Category 1B difficulty
2. Ascent along the ridge from Mordy Pass — Category 3B difficulty
3. Ascent via the southeast wall — Category 5B difficulty

Route Description to the Summit

From the "Uzunkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the old koshi. Then cross the bridge to the left bank and follow the path to the large gray moraine of the Dalar Glacier. Along the moraine crest to its middle part, via grassy slopes and scree (sharp descent), then along the path left-down to the terraces, and again onto the moraine (large boulders). At the end of the moraine, exit onto the glacier and, crossing it to the right, ascend the slopes (in teams!) to Dalar Pass.

Cross the bergschrund under the pass via the bridge (belay!) and then ascend the snow to the pass. Beyond the pass (from the south) lies a rocky island — a bivouac site. From the camp, it takes 6–7 hours.

From the bivouac, return to the pass and move left onto the snowy, partially steep ridge. Continue along the boundary between snow and rock to a large rocky ascent, and climb to the right onto the left part of the ridge and along it to the ice-snow col (belay!). From the col, ascend the steep snowy slope to the snowy ridge and along it to the summit.

From the bivouac to the summit takes 4.5–5 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac via the ascent route takes 2.5 hours. When descending, pay attention to belaying when crossing the col — to the left are cornices, to the right is a snowy funnel!

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — 2–3 training units
2. Initial bivouac — Dalar Pass
3. Departure time from the bivouac — 5:00–6:00 AM
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) rope 2 x 30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 2 pcs; d) ice pitons — 2 pcs — in the second half of summer; e) rock hammers — 2 pcs; f) carabiners — 6–7 pcs.

Ascent from Mordy Pass — Category 3B difficulty

The path to the bivouac is described in the ascent to Kara-Baschi Peak. From the bivouac, move right-up along the scree under the rocks of Kara-Baschi to the Mordy Glacier. Across the middle part of the glacier and then along the snowy slopes to Mordy Pass. (Bypass the bergschrund to the left under the walls of Kirpich Peak). From the pass (in teams!) move left to bypass the gendarme along a wide ledge, in its middle part. From the end of the ledge, descend to a snowy "neck" and ascend along it to a scree saddle. From here, move right along stepped rocks to rocky outcrops — "forked posts." Ascend to the left outcrop of the "forked posts" from the left and then along the jagged ridge (belay!) to a small ledge before a couloir with a steepness of 60°. Up the 60 m couloir (belay! Pitons!) to a short ledge. From here, move left along the scree to bypass the "reddish" wall (belay! Pitons!) onto a narrow ledge before the slabs — 25 m. Up the slabs to the right (pitons!) to a large ledge. Then move right along the rocks to the ridge and along it 120 m to a col. Descend into the col from left to right along a ledge (belay!) to the bottom, then left-down 3 m and ascend right-up to a ledge before an inner corner (piton! belay!).

Up the inner corner (on existing anchors) to the ruined ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit takes 7–8 hours. Descent to the bivouac via the Category 1B route takes 3–3.5 hours.

When descending, pay attention to belaying when crossing the col — to the left are cornices, to the right is a snowy funnel!

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — 4–8 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Mordy overnight"
3. Departure time from the bivouac — 4:00–5:00 AM
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) rope 2 x 40 m; b) expendable cordelette — 3 m; c) rock pitons — 8–9 pcs; d) rock hammers — 2 pcs; e) carabiners — 7–8 pcs.
5. Possible bivouac sites — on the summit, on the ridge along the Category 1B route.