M29. Brick via the Western Wall along the gullies

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by G. Sedov's team, 1969) The ascent to the plateau of the Myrdy Glacier is described in route M16. Move along the glacier to beneath the snowy slopes at the center of the western wall. The right-hand end of the wall "diamond" with black streaks on completely smooth walls, topped with an oblique series of cornices, is the landmark for the route's entrance. To the right of the cornices on the wall is a huge gully (do not enter — loose rocks!). In the next, narrower gully, on its right side, stands a separate rock resembling an enormous bottle with a neck tilted to the left — this is the landmark for the route's entrance. Below, to the right of the "bottle," are two rock formations forming the bases of counterforts-ribs ("gates"). Between them is a narrow snowy "tie." The left counterfort is the lower part of the large wall with black streaks, and the right one is the wall of the gully through which the lower part of the route passes. Under the right part of the gully's wall is a large rantkluft that narrows at the narrowest part of the "gates." Ascend from the rantkluft up the steep snowy slope to the start of the rocks. On the right side of the grey rocks (this is the lower part of the gully), reach the R1 ledge. From here, ascend via a cleft to a small ledge beneath a short rib — the edge of the R3 gully (monolithic climbing with small holds). Landmarks for further movement are:

• to the right above — an enormous, sharply protruding vertical rib-corner;
• to the left — the edge of the large gully.

Through a series of ledges, short walls, and inner corners (ledges with grass and lichen), reach the large inner corner at R6–R8, which runs parallel to the right landmark — the rib-corner. Above the corner, a series of ledges, slabs, and short walls leads to a block of "sheep's foreheads" — grey-colored cornices, in the middle of which (R10–R12) a clearly defined rib-counterfort runs up the wall. On the left part of the ledge near the rib is a route cairn. From the ledge — move right and, bypassing the block of cornices via steep rock fissures and "sheep's foreheads," ascend to a short balcony at R12 above the block of cornices. Along the ledge-balcony — left to its end, from here straight up through a short cleft to a 60-meter inner corner-chimney. A little above the middle of the R13 corner is a good ledge (for two climbers) for a change of lead. Water flows along the bottom of the corner-chimney, and small rocks fall. Behind the chimney are white rocks and a large ledge. From here, via large stepped rocks, move somewhat to the right onto rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads." Landmarks for the further path are the "gates":

• to the left — beyond the large gully, a separate gendarm on the wall, "Trident";
• to the right — enormous vertical slabs with black streaks and the gendarm "Pillar".

Through simple rocks, separate blocks, and slabs, reach the summit dome to the wall-rib at R17. To the left of it, via 300-meter destroyed rocks and the snowy slope of the dome, ascend to the summit. Descend from the summit via route M26, and return to the Myrdy bivouac via route M27.

KHPNH4

Route specifics

• Have 4–5 very thin pitons in the set;
• There are only seated bivouac sites along the entire wall; above the wall, a tent camp is possible;
• Along the entire route, do not enter the left large gullies — loose rocks!;
• Rocks on most of the wall are covered with thin lichen; on the ledges — grass and earth; climbing is difficult after bad weather;
• The overall line of the route on the wall does not have a clear character — move carefully according to the landmarks;
• The route is one-day; it is climbed without an intermediate bivouac; 8–12 hours are required for the wall section;
• In unfavorable conditions, the point of return from the route can be the R10 ledge, but not higher, as during descent, considering the negative nature of the rocks, it is possible not to reach the ledges or ledges.