M26. Kirpich from Dalar Pass

(combined route, 1B category of complexity, first ascent by M. Lepnev, 1937) Approach the slopes of Dalar Pass via the Zapadny Dalar Glacier. Ascend to the pass via a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which can be traversed using a bridge or a gap. From the bivouac on the Dalar plateau — 2–4 hours, depending on the condition of the bergschrund.

From the pass, head right along the long snowy ridge, sometimes along the boundary between snow and rocks, to a large snowy rise on the ridge. At the top of the rise, on the rocks, there is a large geodetic cairn. From here, traverse to the left side of the ridge and approach a snow-ice funnel. Do not ascend to its upper edge facing the Myrdy Glacier due to cornices! Cross the funnel in the middle of its slope or along the bottom if it is free of snow.

Beyond the funnel, ascend a steep snowy or icy slope, leaving vertically standing gray rock blocks on the left, to a snowy ridge, which leads to the snowy-scree dome of the summit. From the pass — 3 hours.

The descent follows the ascent route until the pass and takes 2 hours.

To v. Maly Dalar Dalar Pass 26 Kirpich Rock blocks (landmark) Scree, snow R0–R2 — Snow funnel, up to 50°, icy sections! Cornices! Individual rock ascents Destroyed rock ridge Destroyed rock ridge Snow slopes 200 m, up to 35° Bergschrund — traverse via gap Snow slope 150 m, 35–40° Snow slope 80 m, 45° Northeast ridge