Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass
3. Peak, height, ascent route — Dzhalovchat (Uzlovaya), 3680 m, via the northeast ridge, combined, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 480 m, length of sections: category I difficulty — 1240 m, category II difficulty — 830 m, category III difficulty — 60 m, Total — 2130 m, average steepness of the ridge section — 35°
6. Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolt, placed elements. | for belay | 6 | 1 | - | 10 | |---|---|---|---|---|

Fig. 32

6. Ascent to the eastern peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3800 m) from the north — cat. dif. 3B (see Fig. 32)

From the saddle to the left of Iné peak along the plateau upwards along the northern ridge to a wide (50° slope) ice-snow couloir, crossing a bergschrund and up the ice-snow couloir to a snow pad on the northern ridge (belay; in the second half of summer — ice, ice screws, crampons!). Further along the ridge and through a destroyed gendarme (2 pitons, rockfall hazard!) on the ridge — exit under the obelisk of the summit. After the gendarme, left along a steep snow patch (belay, in case of ice — ice screws!) 60–70 m and exit onto rocks. On the rocks:

• ascent to a narrow couloir going up (2 pitons!)

Fig. 30

2. Ascent to the main summit of Dzhuguturluchat via the northern slope - category (see Fig. 30)

From Abalakovskaya bivouac to the left-up along the glacier, bypassing ice falls from the left, then to the right-up along the slope between the ice falls and the rocky island.

• At first, the slope is gentle - 200-250 m
• Then the steepness increases to 45°, in some places - up to 50° (belay!)
• In the second half of summer, there is ice on this section; ice screws are necessary for belay (45-50°, belay!) Further to the right - up to the northwest ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac

Fig. 32

5. Ascent to the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3700 m) from the north — category (Fig. 32)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail to the crossing over the Dombay River (2 hours). After crossing the river, ascend via grassy slopes, scree, and "ram's foreheads" on the left side of the Iné Glacier. Ascend up the glacier to a snow plateau, then move right towards the "ram's foreheads," and ascend them to the scree. Continue left along the massif of Pik Iné to the first glacial couloir (be cautious of rockfall danger from Pik Iné!). Ascend the couloir left of Pik Iné to the col. Characteristics of the couloir:

• Lower section: ice and snow (ice in the second half of summer)
• Upper section: rocky
• Traverse in a rope team (danger of rockfall!) The col is a suitable bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7–8 hours. From the col, ascend via a glacier crevassed in some areas and a snow plateau to the right, towards the northern ridge of the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat. Ascend a steep snow slope on the left side of the ridge to a 5-meter rusty wall with a slope of 80°. Ascend the wall (2 pitons) and continue via loose rocks, slabs, and a crevice on the left side of the ridge to a 3-meter loose wall. Pass through it to a platform (suitable for bivouac). From the platform, ascend to a wide ledge and along it to the left to a double crevice. After 20 meters in the crevice, exit to a small ridge notch descending from the peak to the northeast. Continue traversing left on ledges through a ridge crest, then again on ledges to the eastern ridge and along it to the right to the summit. From the col, 6–7 hours. Almost the entire path is prone to rockfall! Descent follows the ascent route, 4–5 hours. Use rappelling on steep sections.

2.2.6362

The summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat is located in the Main Caucasian Range (MCR). This section of the MCR starts from the Amanauz massif, after which the ridge lowers to the rarely visited "Nauka" pass and continues further - to the complex terrain of the multi-summit massif, connecting with the South summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat. From it, the ridge turns northeast to the Main (3921 m) and Uzlovaya (3800 m) summits of Dzhuguturlyuchat, from which a short spur branches off to peak Mitnikov (3700 m) and further to the East summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat (3880 m). From the latter, the spur branches out:

• to the north - to peak Ine (3409 m)
• to the west - to the West summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat (3700 m). The massifs of Dzhuguturlyuchat and Amanauz form a huge cirque, in which three glaciers are located. From the summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat, the ridge has an eastern direction and connects to the rocky summit of Ptysh (3520 m). This section of the ridge is known as Akbeksky. The route to the summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat runs along the eastern edge, which stretches parallel to the 3B category route to peak Mitnikov. The route is rocky in nature, except for the approach to the edge, which passes through the East Dzhuguturlyuchat glacier. From the "Dombay" tourist center to the Ptysh camps, this path is well described in Kropf's book (part 3). The ascent from the Ptysh camps to the East Dzhuguturlyuchat glacier plateau is possible through three broad couloirs:
• the 1st descends under the slopes of the Akbek peaks;

T­a­b ii­a

Climbing Report of the KCR Team to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen 3968 m

Via the South Face, 5B category (variant). Presumably 5B category of difficulty. Variant. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — participant

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass.

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya St., 8, apt. 117.

Fig. 46

5. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen via the north-eastern wall — category 5B difficulty (Fig. 46)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail via Chuchkhur Pass, descend into Bu-Ulgen gorge, and then to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac.

• From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7-8 hours. Alternative option. By car via Gonachkhir to Bu-Ulgen glade, and then follow the trail to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 3-4 hours. From the bivouac, initially follow the moraine, then:
• right — up the scree
• further up the slope of the avalanche cone (steepness 40-45°) — exit to the wall rocks
• traverse through the bergschrund

Dombay (W), center of the N wall — Zhiltsov A.G. Caucasus 2.2 Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus
3. Dombay (W), along the center of the N wall (Gubanova route), with a traverse to Dombay (Gl)
4. Complexity category – 6B
5. Height difference: 1500 m, length: 1990 m. Length of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 475 m. Average steepness of the route – 65° Average steepness of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 85°

ASCENT OF VOSTOCHNY DOMBAY-ULGEN (3950 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE (S. SENY ROUTE)

Climbing Report LVOV, 1971

Assault Team Composition

Surname, Name, Patronymic	Year of Birth	Nationality	Party Membership	Sport Rank	Climbing Experience	Instructor Rank	Primary Profession	Place of Residence
1. Shalaev Gennadiy Ivanovich	1931	Russian	CPSU member	MS	Since 1952	Instructor	Engineer	Lvov-14, Doroga Krivchitskaya, 1, apt. 17
2. Bolizhevsky Valeriy Konstantinovich	1940	Russian	Non-party	MS	Since 1956	Instructor	Engineer	Drogobych, Lvov region, Stryiskaya, 5, apt. 39