Fig. 30

2. Ascent to the main summit of Dzhuguturluchat via the northern slope - category (see Fig. 30)

From Abalakovskaya bivouac to the left-up along the glacier, bypassing ice falls from the left, then to the right-up along the slope between the ice falls and the rocky island.

• At first, the slope is gentle - 200-250 m
• Then the steepness increases to 45°, in some places - up to 50° (belay!)
• In the second half of summer, there is ice on this section; ice screws are necessary for belay (45-50°, belay!)

Further to the right - up to the northwest ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit - 4-6 hours. Descent along the route of 2B category (rockfall danger, belay!) takes 5 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group - no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Abalakovskaya bivouac.
3. Departure time from the bivouac - no later than 2-3 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope - 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette - 3 m; c) rock pitons - 5-6; d) ice screws - 2-3 (in the second half of summer - 5-6); e) rock hammers - 2; f) carabiners - 10; g) crampons - 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st - on the summit; 2nd - on the col between the Main and South summits.

Fig. 31

3. Ascent to the Main summit of Dzhuguturuchat via the northeast ridge - 3A category (Fig. 31, A)

From Abalakovskaya bivouac up the glacier, bypassing ice falls from the left, then to the right - up, to the slope under the col between the false and Main summits of Dzhuguturuchat. Further through the bergschrund:

• belay;
• in the second half of summer - ice, belay.

piton belay, crampons!) and along the steep slope (50-55°) - to the col. From the col to the left-up through a jumble of rocks and a 10-meter wall (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Further along the ridge (belay through outcrops, in places piton belay!). Two large gendarmes are bypassed from the right along a crack (belay!). Then ascent along a narrow couloir (rockfall danger!) and through a 15-meter wall - to an inclined ledge. From the ledge to the ridge and along it through a series of small gendarmes - to the summit. From the bivouac 6-7 hours.

Descent along the ascent route takes 4-5 hours, descent along the route of 2B category - 5 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group - no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Abalakovskaya bivouac.
3. Departure time from the bivouac - no later than 3:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope - 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette - 3 m; c) rock pitons - 6-8; d) ice screws - 2-3; e) rock hammers - 2; f) carabiners - 8-10; g) crampons - 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st - under the Main summit on the northeast ridge; 2nd - on the Main summit; 3rd - on the col between the Main and South summits.