Fig. 32

5. Ascent to the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3700 m) from the north — category (Fig. 32)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail to the crossing over the Dombay River (2 hours). After crossing the river, ascend via grassy slopes, scree, and "ram's foreheads" on the left side of the Iné Glacier. Ascend up the glacier to a snow plateau, then move right towards the "ram's foreheads," and ascend them to the scree. Continue left along the massif of Pik Iné to the first glacial couloir (be cautious of rockfall danger from Pik Iné!).

Ascend the couloir left of Pik Iné to the col. Characteristics of the couloir:

• Lower section: ice and snow (ice in the second half of summer)
• Upper section: rocky
• Traverse in a rope team (danger of rockfall!)

The col is a suitable bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7–8 hours.

From the col, ascend via a glacier crevassed in some areas and a snow plateau to the right, towards the northern ridge of the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat. Ascend a steep snow slope on the left side of the ridge to a 5-meter rusty wall with a slope of 80°. Ascend the wall (2 pitons) and continue via loose rocks, slabs, and a crevice on the left side of the ridge to a 3-meter loose wall. Pass through it to a platform (suitable for bivouac). From the platform, ascend to a wide ledge and along it to the left to a double crevice. After 20 meters in the crevice, exit to a small ridge notch descending from the peak to the northeast. Continue traversing left on ledges through a ridge crest, then again on ledges to the eastern ridge and along it to the right to the summit. From the col, 6–7 hours. Almost the entire path is prone to rockfall! Descent follows the ascent route, 4–5 hours. Use rappelling on steep sections.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Group size should not exceed 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac: col left of Pik Iné.
3. Departure time from bivouac: not later than 4:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4: a) main rope — 2×40 m; b) expendable cord — 8 m; c) rock pitons — 10; d) ice pitons — 2 (for the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8–10; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1st — above the 3-meter loose wall; 2nd — left of the summit on the ridge.