Fig. 32

6. Ascent to the eastern peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3800 m) from the north — cat. dif. 3B (see Fig. 32)

From the saddle to the left of Iné peak along the plateau upwards along the northern ridge to a wide (50° slope) ice-snow couloir, crossing a bergschrund and up the ice-snow couloir to a snow pad on the northern ridge (belay; in the second half of summer — ice, ice screws, crampons!). Further along the ridge and through a destroyed gendarme (2 pitons, rockfall hazard!) on the ridge — exit under the obelisk of the summit. After the gendarme, left along a steep snow patch (belay, in case of ice — ice screws!) 60–70 m and exit onto rocks.

On the rocks:

• ascent to a narrow couloir going up (2 pitons!)
• through the couloir to the right — onto the ridge (belay!)

Then:

• along the ridge
• through smoothed steep rocks ascent (pitons belay!) to the summit

From the saddle 7–8 hours. Under the summit, there is space for two tents.

Descent via the ascent route takes 5–6 hours. From the smoothed rocks and from the gendarme, descent is by rappel.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — saddle to the left of Iné peak.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 4:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2 × 40 m; b) accessory cord — 4 m; c) rock pitons — 6–7; d) ice screws — 2; e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 10; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on the eastern ridge after the snow pad; 2nd — under the summit.