ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: combined.
2. Ascent area: spurs of the Main Caucasian Range from the Chipperazau Pass to the Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Ullutau Main, 4207 m, via the center of the Northwest wall through the "Rocky Island".
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference – 900 m, b) average steepness – 65°, c) section lengths: III difficulty category – 670 m, IV difficulty category – 1360 m, V difficulty category – 650 m.
6. Number of pitons: For belaying:
   • Rock 38
   • Ice 98
   • Bolt 2

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: winter
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Height difference:
   • wall section: 810 m
   • total route length: 1583 m
   • wall section length: 983 m

Passport

1. Climbing category: ice-snow
2. Climbing region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su region
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Ullutau Main via North-Northwest wall, 4207 m, 5B category, 3rd ascent.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m; average steepness — 47°; route length to the ridge — 1300 m.
5. Pitons used: rock 13/0, drilled 0/0, chocks 4/0, ice screws 122/0
6. Team's total climbing hours: 9 hours
7. Team: leader Kurganov N.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports Members:
   • Erokhin I.D. — Candidate for Master of Sports

272. Ullutau Western peak via Western ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 18, 30).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Garvash pass is described in route 278. From the saddle platforms, follow the straightforward, heavily damaged and snow-covered (cornices) rocky Western ridge, passing three ascents, to approach the Teeth, which are bypassed by traversing from the left, and then approach the wall (5-8 m high). The wall is overcome directly via medium-difficulty rocks (pitons insurance). Then, along a narrow 40-60-meter ridge, approach the couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, insurance). Up the steep rocks on the left side of the narrowing snow-covered 80-90-meter couloir - ascent ("live" rocks, pitons insurance) to the Western shoulder. From the Western shoulder, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Western peak via the rocks of the Western ridge. From the Garvash pass, it takes 3-4 hours.

Fig. 30

271. Ullutau Western via North-Western Wall of the Eastern Ridge

(combined route by D. Gudkov, cat. 4B, fig. 18, 30, 31) The path from Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to "Cheget bivouac" is described in route 269. From "Cheget bivouac":

• ascend upwards to the left along the rugged western part of Ullutau glacier, bypassing numerous crevices, to the rocky outcrop located on the path to Garvash pass, under the right side of the Lower rocky belt at the base of the North-Western wall of Ullutau massif;
• set up initial bivouac on the outcrop's flat areas;
• the journey from "Cheget bivouac" takes 30-50 minutes. From the initial bivouac on the outcrop, traverse 200-250 m to the left to cross the glacier plateau

Fig. 30

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder, category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Japaridze and G. Niguriani ascended to the Main Peak from the Lekzyr glacier via the Mestian pass, following a route of category 3B difficulty, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass, following a route of category 2B difficulty. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were accomplished for the first time, with a category 4B difficulty: 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east, 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946, the first ascent was made via the "board" to the Western peak, followed by a traverse of the massif to the east, category 5A difficulty — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov. In the 1950s, the conquest of the northern walls began:

• 1951 — V. Abalakov, M. Anufrikov, A. Borovikov, N. Gusak, V. Kizel, V. Nagaev, L. Filimonov, V. Cheredova — Main peak ("Central") via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty,
• 1954 — E. Monucharov, E. Emelyanov, G. Kalepov, B. Sadovsky, G. Senachev, Yu. Chernoslivin — Eastern peak via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty.

276. Ullutau Western — Eastern

(combined route by L. Nadezhdin, 4A cat. dif., fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ullutau Western is described in route 272. From the summit of Ullutau Western:

• down the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge,
• then down 15 m steep rocks and 10 m slabs to a snowy saddle. Beyond the saddle:
• along a narrow ledge on the right side of the ridge (overhanging rocks, loose stones),
• up a 10 m wall of medium difficulty with a crack to reach the ridge of the massif. Along the easy ridge, reach the 2nd Western pinnacle-summit. From the pinnacle-summit, descend down slabs and steep rocks to an icy-snowy saddle. Then, along simple rocks of the ridge, passing a 10-meter sharp crest, approach the Main Pinnacle, which is bypassed via difficult slabs on the left. Further along the heavily serrated ridge of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the Red Pinnacle.

Fig. 30