Report on the Second Ascent

Dulnev's Route, Tyutyu 2nd Western peak via the left part of the South face of the South ridge. Assumed 5B category of difficulty. Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club "FREELINE", Pyatigorsk.

Passport

1. Class: technical.
2. Central Caucasus, Kullumkol gorge.
3. Tyutyu 2nd West via the left part of the South face of the South ridge, 4420 m.
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference: 920 m, length — 1100 m.

Ascent Passport No. 121

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Tyutyu Su gorge.
3. Tyutyu 2nd Western peak via the northern wall (M. Khergiani route).
4. Category of difficulty: 6A.
5. Height difference — 1150 m, length 1800 m, of which 5th and 6th category of difficulty are 720 m.
6. Pitched: | Ice screws: | Rock pitons: | Nut placements: | Cams: | | :---------- | :----------- | :-------------- | :---- |

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus, Tyutyu-Su gorge
3. V. Tyutyu, 2nd Zap. via N. side, 4420 m
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 1400 m, length 2100 m Length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty is 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 65° (3050–4150 m)
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock bolt pitons ice screws 20 96 26

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Object of ascent — Tyu-Tyu 2nd Western (4420 m) via the North wall.
4. Height difference of the wall part of the route — 1400 m. Total route length — 1765 m. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 215 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 335 m.
5. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 65°.
6. Pitons driven:

Tyutyu Central via the West Ridge, combined, 26 hours

Route description:

The path from the Ullutau alpbase to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine near the West Tyutyu glacier follows the trail in the Kulukol gorge, on its left side, with a steep ascent to the glacier tongue. It's also possible to ascend via the Rayskie nochyovki (Paradise Camps) and exit onto the moraine shoulder of the West ridge of Shogentsukova peak. From the campsite, exit onto the glacier and move along its left part (closed crevasses!) to approach the Kulukol pass col, located under the southern slope of the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak. From the pass:

• Turn right
• Traverse the col along a simple snowy scree
• Ascend the ice-snow slope to the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak On the West ridge:
• Bypass the Katya Korlyakova gendarme (with a triangulation tripod on its summit)

Tyutyu East - West, combined, 3A

Route Description

The path from the "Dzhailyk" hostel goes along the right side of the Kullukol gorge to the foot of a steep grassy slope, on whose shoulder the "Paradise Campsite" is located. From the "Paradise Campsite", the ascent begins along the moraine until reaching the Western Tyutyu glacier. Crossing the glacier along its central part, we reach the foot of a snowy shoulder located on the eastern slopes of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. We ascend the steep snowy slope to the shoulder (avalanches!!), then along a heavily damaged rocky ridge of medium difficulty, we reach the 5th peak of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. The descent from the 5th peak to the saddle and the ascent to the Main peak go along a sharp snowy ridge (cornices!!). From the Main peak, we descend along monolithic block-type rocks (1.5–2 ropes). Here, there may be flow ice covered with snow. The ascent to the 3rd peak goes along a rocky ridge of medium complexity. It is advisable to move to the left. The descent to the saddle between the 3rd and 2nd peaks goes along snow-covered slabs. On the saddle, there is a gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. Having passed the gendarme, we approach a 6–8 m rock wall, which is climbed using free climbing with piton belay, after which we reach the 2nd peak. Along a wide snowy ridge, we move towards the 1st peak along a snowy slope, bypassing the gendarme on the left, and descend to the Kullumkolsky pass. Having descended from the pass, we reach the Western Tyutyu glacier and, crossing it, we return to the "Paradise Campsite". Time from "Ullu-tau" hostel to "Paradise Campsite" is 1.5–2 hours. From the "Paradise Campsite", the entire traverse takes 14–15 hours.

Traverse Tyutyu Western–Eastern, combined, 3A

Route description:

From the "Dzhaulyak" alpine camp, follow the right (orthographically) bank of the Kullumkol River along the trail to a stream, then turn right into the gorge. Cross the stream and move up the trail, which runs along the moraine ridge towards the rock screes. Below the screes, turn right and cross the large talus to the trail leading to the edge of the terminal moraine. Tyutyu overnight campsite. 2.5 hours from the camp. From the campsite, move along the left (in the direction of travel) edge of the glacier along the moraine ridges to reach the plateau below v. Tyutyu 1st Western. The plateau has crevasses. Turn left on the plateau and, bypassing the ice ascent to the left, reach the glacier terrace, from which:

• a straightforward ascent to the Kullumkol Pass. If the snow is in good condition, from this terrace you can:
• turn right onto the steep snow-ice slope and immediately ascend to the ridge below the second "gendarm". From the pass:

261. Ullutau East via the Eastern Ridge

(combined route by A. Zolotarev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Mestian Pass is described in route 247. At the pass saddle, turn right and approach the base of the Eastern ridge of the Ullutau massif via a snowy slope. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and reach the Eastern ridge. Follow the boundary between rocks and snow of the straightforward Eastern ridge to approach the first "saw" jendarme. Traverse the "saw" consisting of 4 jendarmes along the destroyed simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Eastern ridge ("loose" stones, belay) and reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend along the straightforward, gentle, long, and occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) Eastern ridge with two rises to a snow dome. From the dome, make a straightforward gentle descent along a wide snowy rocky ridge to a saddle (large cornice). From the saddle, make a steep ascent along rocks alternating with sharp snowy ridges to the Vzlet jendarme. From it, follow the sharp snowy (cornices) straightforward Eastern ridge to approach the "saw". The second "saw" is traversed along a ridge of numerous small jendarmes, exiting below the Ogurtsy jendarmes, which are bypassed on the left along steep, moderately and more than moderately difficult destroyed rocks (belay), and then ascend along a couloir to a wide snowy saddle of the Eastern ridge below the rocky wall of the Eastern shoulder. The bivouac is on the saddle. From the Mestian Pass, it takes 4-8 hours.

Fig. 30

203. Ullutau Vostochnaya via the Eastern ridge (combined route, E. Emelyanova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 24, 30). Follow the snowy slope of the Mestia Pass (199 m) to the base of the Eastern ridge of the Ullutau massif. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge to reach the Eastern ridge. Along the boundary between rocks and snow of the straightforward Eastern ridge, approach the "saw". Traverse the ruined easy and moderately difficult rocks of the "saw" comprising 4 pinnacles, then cross a snowy saddle ("live" rocks, belay), and continue along the straightforward, gentle, long, and in places sharp snowy (cornices) Eastern ridge to reach a snow dome. From the dome, make a simple gentle descent along the wide snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge to a saddle (cornice). From the saddle, make a steep ascent up rocks alternating with sharp snowy ridges to the "Vzlët" pinnacle, and from it follow the straightforward sharp snow-covered (cornice) Eastern ridge. Continue along the ridge past small pinnacles of the second "saw" to the "Ogurtsy" pinnacles. Traverse the "Ogurtsy" pinnacles from the left via steep ruined rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty (belay), and beyond them ascend a couloir to a wide snowy saddle on the Eastern ridge below the rocky wall of the Eastern shoulder. Camp on the saddle. From the Mestia Pass, 4–8 hours. From the saddle:

• Ascend 40 m up moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the wall.
• Continue up a slope-couloir on the left side via a traversing ascent to the ridge of the Eastern shoulder.
• Follow straightforward snow-covered rocks on the left side of the ridge to reach the Eastern shoulder.
• From the shoulder, make a straightforward descent to a saddle (cornice).