261. Ullutau East via the Eastern Ridge

(combined route by A. Zolotarev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Mestian Pass is described in route 247. At the pass saddle, turn right and approach the base of the Eastern ridge of the Ullutau massif via a snowy slope. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and reach the Eastern ridge. Follow the boundary between rocks and snow of the straightforward Eastern ridge to approach the first "saw" jendarme. Traverse the "saw" consisting of 4 jendarmes along the destroyed simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Eastern ridge ("loose" stones, belay) and reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend along the straightforward, gentle, long, and occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) Eastern ridge with two rises to a snow dome.

From the dome, make a straightforward gentle descent along a wide snowy rocky ridge to a saddle (large cornice). From the saddle, make a steep ascent along rocks alternating with sharp snowy ridges to the Vzlet jendarme. From it, follow the sharp snowy (cornices) straightforward Eastern ridge to approach the "saw". The second "saw" is traversed along a ridge of numerous small jendarmes, exiting below the Ogurtsy jendarmes, which are bypassed on the left along steep, moderately and more than moderately difficult destroyed rocks (belay), and then ascend along a couloir to a wide snowy saddle of the Eastern ridge below the rocky wall of the Eastern shoulder. The bivouac is on the saddle. From the Mestian Pass, it takes 4-8 hours.

From the saddle, ascend 40 meters up along rocks of moderate and more than moderate difficulty on the left side of the wall to the left slope - the couloir of the Eastern shoulder. From here, ascend along the slope - couloir on the left side, traversing to the ridge of the shoulder. Follow the easy, straightforward, and occasionally moderately difficult snowy rocks on the left side of the ridge to reach the Eastern shoulder.

From the shoulder, make a straightforward descent to a saddle (cornice). After crossing it, ascend along an ice-snow ridge, then along a steep slope and straightforward steep rocks to reach the summit of Ullutau East. From the saddle below the Eastern shoulder, it takes 3-4 hours.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment