Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Object of ascent — Tyu-Tyu 2nd Western (4420 m) via the North wall.
4. Height difference of the wall part of the route — 1400 m. Total route length — 1765 m. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 215 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 335 m.
5. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 65°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 19, ice — 48, bolt — 0, chocks — 133.
7. Number of climbing hours — 21, days — 2.
8. Number of bivouacs on the route — 1 (comfortable, lying down).
9. Water availability — snow throughout the entire route.
10. Team leader — Kadoshnikov N.G., CMS. Team members:
    • Yudin A.N., CMS
    • Chepur A.A., MS
    • Kravchenko O.V., CMS.
11. Team coach — Gorbachevsky A.D.
12. Departure to the route — August 1, 1996. Reaching the summit of Tyu-Tyu 2nd Western — August 2, 1996. Return to the base camp — August 2, 1996.
13. Ascent organized by the Krasnodar Committee for Physical Culture and Sports team.

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

Route description by sections

R0–R1 — Sloping shelf leading to under the Red wall. R1–R2 — Smooth inner corner leading to a terrace with rocks. R2–R3 — Rocks, like "ram's foreheads", leading to under an overhanging rock. R3–R4 — Bypassing the rock along the edge of ice and rocks. R4–R6 — Along the shelf to a rocky shoulder. R6–R7 — Up a slab-like couloir to a snow bridge. R8–R11 — Along the shelves of the wall under an overhanging little wall and through it to rocks like "ram's foreheads". R11–R12 — Across the rocks to a snowy shoulder. R12–R14 — Across snow and ice to the base of a large inner corner. R14–R18 — Keeping to the right side of the inner corner, to a small site above the corner. R18–R20 — From the site along a rocky-ice slope to the left of overhanging rocks under the wall. R20–R21 — Steep wall with an exit to a site. R21–R24 — Along an indistinctly expressed ridge under a tower and bypassing it on the right via a couloir. R24–R26 — From the tower via large-block rocks and an inner corner, exit to the ridge. R26–R29 — Along a steep rocky ridge turning into an ice ridge, to a couloir and via it exit to a site and further along the ridge under the Red wall. R30–R31 — Bypassing the wall on the right via ice and snow, to a rocky tower. R31–R33 — Exit to the tower on the left. R33–R34 — Along a rocky-ice ridge under a rocky ascent. R34–R35 — Traverse to the left and via a cleft, ascent to a shelf. R35–R37 — Along the shelf to the right upwards and via an inner corner, exit to an ice slope. R37–R39 — Along the ice slope to the rocks of the ridge and via them, exit to the summit.

Technical photograph. Photo №2

Passage of the first section R15–R16. Photo №3

K — M. Khergiani route — 2nd Western via N wall, 6A.

1. — I. Kakhiani route — Main via N edge, 5B.
2. — L. Popov route — Eastern via N wall, 5B. General view of Tyu-Tyu peak. Photo №1.