Tyutyu Central via the West Ridge, combined, 26 hours
Route description:
The path from the Ullutau alpbase to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine near the West Tyutyu glacier follows the trail in the Kulukol gorge, on its left side, with a steep ascent to the glacier tongue. It's also possible to ascend via the Rayskie nochyovki (Paradise Camps) and exit onto the moraine shoulder of the West ridge of Shogentsukova peak.
From the campsite, exit onto the glacier and move along its left part (closed crevasses!) to approach the Kulukol pass col, located under the southern slope of the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak.
From the pass:
- Turn right
- Traverse the col along a simple snowy scree
- Ascend the ice-snow slope to the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak
On the West ridge:
- Bypass the Katya Korlyakova gendarme (with a triangulation tripod on its summit)
- Turn right
- Move along a gentle, wide, snowy, easy rock ridge (175–200 m) to the 1st gendarme
- Bypass the 1st gendarme on the right via broken rocks
Further along the gentle ice-snow West ridge, approach the 2nd gendarme, which is also bypassed on the right via snowy screes. Then, ascend to the summit of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak via easy rocks on the West ridge.
2–3 hours from the initial bivouac. From Tyutyu Zapadnaya, descend down the simple rock, then ice-snow (scree in August) ridge to the col, and from it, ascend to the summit of 2nd West Tyutyu via a simple, heavily broken rock West ridge.
From Tyutyu 2nd West, descend 35–40 m down and to the right along steep, simple, broken rocks on the East ridge. Then, make a 10–12 m rappel and move along the ice-snow ridge (cornice) to approach the gendarme.
Ascend the gendarme via steep, simple rock on the ridge; from it, move along:
- simple rock,
- then along a wide ice-snow (cornice) ridge — down to the saddle before the summit ascent.
Ascend to the summit of Tyutyu Central via a 60-meter wide ice-snow (cornice) ascent on the West ridge. 2.5–3 hours from Tyutyu West.
Return from Tyutyu Central via the ascent route.