D.B. Sharashenidze

Center of the big triangle of the North wall

(Report on the first ascent) Team captain MS USSR Sharashenidze D.B. Team coach MS USSR Kartvelishvili G.I. Tbilisi – 1976

Tactical plan of the ascent

The tactical plan was made taking into account the specifics of the area, characterized by complex meteorological conditions. Reconnaissance confirmed that the route is a monolithic wall of great steepness, and there are practically no places for overnight stays in a tent. Therefore, the tactics of passing this route had to be fundamentally different, since hanging overnight stays during a long ascent period greatly exhaust the climber's strength. The main difficulties presented by the wall were as follows:

1. Transportation of cargo on the route.
2. Organization of reliable and safe overnight stays without a tent.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Karakol region, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak Jigit (5170), center of the large triangle of the north wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 1350 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — about 1000 m. Average steepness — 76°
6. Pitons driven — 156 pcs. ice screws — 7 pcs., chocks, loops — 32 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours (first climber) — 32 h

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan (Karakol) 3. Climbing route — p. Dzhigit 5170 via the triangle of the northern wall (Sharashanidze). 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route description: elevation gain — 110 m (to the ridge) average steepness — 68° average steepness of the complex section — 85° length of the complex section (length of the section with 5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m route length — 1200 m (to the ridge)

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Kok-bor gorge
3. Peak Jigit (V), 5170 m, via NE ridge (Furman, 73)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1370 m Length — 1840 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 540 m Average steepness of main sections 63° (4100–4950) Including 6 category of difficulty (40 m) — 82° (4350–4360; 4470–4480; 4800–4820)
6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Record (First Ascent)

1. Ascent classification: technical
2. Region: Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Karakol area, Telety valley.
3. Peak: p. Dimitrova. Height: 4072 m. Route: from the northwest via the hanging glacier. Route characteristics: snow-ice.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m; average steepness — 35–45°; length — 300 m.
6. Number of ice screws used for belay — 18.
7. Duration: 3.5–4.5 hours.
8. Team members: Bondarev Sergey Borisovich, Pr. — leader

133 51 To the classification of Kyrgyzstan mountains Teskey Ala-Too Range Compiled by Veryasov G. FPTI

Location

Novotny Peak is located in the watershed ridge of the Jargylchak spur of the Teskey Ala-Too Range, i.e. the spur that separates the basin of the Malaia (Kichi) and Bolshaya (Chon) Jargylchak rivers. The southern slopes of its eastern buttress are covered with scree, which descends to the Zaporotzky Glacier cirque. The watershed of the Jargylchak spur runs almost meridionally through the Novotny Peak:

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF THE LITHUANIAN SSR May 21, 1970 TRAVERSING THE PEAKS OF JACQUES DUCLÔS — 4270 m — 4270 m — PIK G. AKSTINASA (KARAKOL VALLEY, TIAN SHAN) Leader: B. BINKAUSKAS, first ascent

Route Description

Traversing Jacques Duclôs – 4270 m – 4270 m – Pik G. Akstinasa

Category 3A route

The route starts from a campsite on the left moraine of the On-tor Glacier (see Scheme I). The campsite is well-protected from the wind, and there is water available, but it's necessary to dig trenches around the tents to avoid trouble from water flows resulting from rain. The ascent to Jacques Duclôs Peak begins with a climb straight up from the campsite. The route then proceeds through the following sections:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Ayutora gorge. Range — Terskey-Alatoo.
3. The peak is named: Pik Yeremin V. (hero of the Civil War, first Komsomol member of the Transport Machine Building Plant named after Ya. M. Sverdlov). The height of the peak is approximately 4000 m above sea level. Ascent route: E buttress, route characteristic — rock climbing.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B.
5. Route characteristic: elevation gain — 350 m, average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered: 6/0.
7. Number of climbing hours: 1.5–2.
8. No overnight stays on the route.

ASCENT DESCRIPTION OF "ŽALGIRIS" PEAK 4850 m VIA SOUTHERN LEFT BUTTRESS 4B cat. diff. AUGUST 1969

Area of "Žalgiris" Peak

"Žalgiris" peak is located in a spur of the Teskey Ala-Too ridge, between the Sary-Chat and Karakol-Tar valleys, 70 km south of Przhevalsk, Kyrgyz SSR. The peak is composed of granites and in the middle part of yellowish, местами almost white marble. Height by altimeter — 4850 m

Approach Routes

From Przhevalsk, we move along the Karakol valley to the Köl-Tör river. From here, along the right bank of the Köl-Tör river and the eastern glacier, we ascend to the Karakol pass. From the pass, we descend to the glacier and move east, cross another unnamed pass, and approach the peak along the glacier.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1965 USSR TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM. HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS. REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF KRAKOL'SKY PEAK 5280 m NORTH-EAST COUNTERFORT (TIAN-SHAN, TERSKEY ALA-TAU RANGE) BY THE KIRGHIZ REssoyuzsport TEAM ON JULY 25-30, 1965. Frunze, 1965 LENGNIK Olgert Mikhaylovich — Master of Sports, participant. Works as a researcher, physicist. Karabalty settlement, Kalinin district, Kirghiz SSR. Has been involved in alpinism since 1952. Participates in the USSR championship for the second time. 1965. Inspection of the counterfort in profile from the western side and 2) "testing" the state of snow when the temperature regime changes throughout the day.