Ascent Record (First Ascent)
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Ascent classification: technical
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Region: Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Karakol area, Telety valley.
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Peak: p. Dimitrova. Height: 4072 m. Route: from the northwest via the hanging glacier. Route characteristics: snow-ice.
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Estimated difficulty category: 3B.
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Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m; average steepness — 35–45°; length — 300 m.
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Number of ice screws used for belay — 18.
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Duration: 3.5–4.5 hours.
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Team members:
Bondarev Sergey Borisovich, Pr. — leader Ivashev Vadim Kornilovich — MS Ustimenko Vladimir Valerievich — Pr.
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Coach: Kolchin Alexander Alexandrovich — MSMK
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Date of ascent: July 4, 1990.
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Organization: AUSV "Ala-Too", Leningrad Institute of Precise Mechanics and Optics.
Brief description of the route (p. Dimitrova from the northwest via the hanging glacier)
From the campsite, follow the trail to the right, bypassing the "ram's foreheads," in the direction of the glacier below p. Dimitrova (1.5 hours). The ascent is made through the center of the hanging glacier. The specific route is determined on site, depending on the condition of the ice and snow.
In the middle section, the glacier becomes less steep, and for a distance of 60 m, the ice is covered with a thick layer of snow. The belay is unreliable! This is the most hazardous part of the route! The upper part of the glacier has numerous crevasses covered with snow.
The most rational path from the ridge to the summit is to bypass the snow patch to the left via the scree.
Descent is made to the northeast along the scree slopes. The northern ridge remains to the left.
It is not recommended to attempt the route after heavy snowfalls due to potential avalanche danger.
The difficulty of the ascent varies depending on the condition of the bergschrund in the lower part of the route.
Route diagram in symbols (p. Dimitrova from NW via hanging glacier)
