СВ ребру плеча п. Чапаева

Report on the first ascent of the northeastern ridge of Peak Chapayev followed by an ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak as part of the 1988 Kazakh SSR Alpine Championship.

Championship of the Kazakh SSR High-altitude class II. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the north-eastern ridge of the shoulder of Peak Chapayev from the North Inylchek Glacier (first ascent) Team 12 SCA SAVO Coach: Yuriy Mikhaylovich Moiseev Team captain: Valeriy Nikolayevich Khrshchatyy 12 Sports Club of the Army, Almaty Almaty, Kurmangazy St., 15, apt. 8, Khrshchatyy V. N., ph. 61-27-25 Participants: V. Khrshchatyy, Z. Aubekerov, G. Mikhaylov, A. Vasil'yev, Ye. Sedel'nikov (SCA-12) August 17-20, 1988

Ascent of Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the NE edge of Chapayev peak shoulder, cat. 5B complexity, combined route.

Passport: Tian – Shan, Tengri–Tag ridge, l. Sev. Inylchek 7, 9, 13 Khan – Tengri 6995 m. NE rib of Chapaev shoulder M-t. Solomatova.B. 5A cat. dif. Route type is combined Height difference 2695. Route length 5110 m. Length of V cat. dif. sections 310 m. avg. slope of NE rib of Chapaev shoulder 44°

Ascent record of Khan-Tengri peak via NE ridge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, category 5B, made by the team of Rostov regional alpine federation in 1996.

Ascent Passport Class of high-altitude ascents Tian Shan, Tengri Tag ridge Peak Khan Tengri via NE edge of p. Chapayeva's shoulder; Difficulty category — 5B. Elevation gain — 2910 m. Distance 6160 m. Distance of sections with V difficulty category 960 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 40°. Team's travel hours — 18, days — 3.

Climbing report on Khan-Tengri via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, cat.5B, Tian-Shan, 1999

on Khan-Tengri via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, Tian Shan, September 7, 2013 Passport High-altitude class. Tian Shan, North Inylchek glacier. Khan-Tengri peak, via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder. 5B category of difficulty, Grebenshchikova memorial route. Height difference: 2950 m, length 5110 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m. Average steepness of NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder — 44°, average steepness of the 3rd ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak — 43°. Number of pitons used: rock — 30+10\; snow — 8\; ice — 1. Left on the route: rock — 10\; snow — 8\. Team's total climbing hours: 20 h and days — 4.

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) by the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Chapayev peak, grade 5B.

Passport Class — high-altitude. Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Peak Khan Tengri, 7010 m, from S. Inylchek Glacier along the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Peak Chapayev (along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder). Complexity category — 5B. Height difference — 2500 m, length — 9000 m, length of sections with 5 and 6 complexity categories — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used. Team's travel hours — 15.5 hours and days — 3. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all lying down. Leader: Bolotov Alexey Vasilyevich — Candidate Master of Sports.

Ascent of Khan-Tengri 6995m via NE edge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, 5A cat., combined route, height difference 2695m.

Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, l. North Inychek 7, 9, 13 Khan-Tengri 6995 m NE ridge of Chapayev peak shoulder Solomatov route. Category B 5A category of difficulty The nature of the route is combined Height difference 2695 m Route length 5110 m

Report on the ascent made by the CSKA team via the 5A category route on Khan-Tengri along the NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder.

Climbing Report for Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m via the NE ridge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, B. Solomatov's route, 5A category CSKA team named after Demchenko: Bryk R.A. — team leader, Volkov A.E., Dikovsky K. Route Passport Category — high-altitude and technical TIAN-SHAN, 7.9. Tengri-Tag ridge Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, NE ridge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, (B. Solomatov's route, 1974) 5A category of difficulty Route type — combined

Ascent of Khan-Tengri (7010 m) via the classic route across the shoulder of Peak Chapayev, category 5B, in difficult weather conditions.

Passport High-altitude technical climb Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge Khan Tengri peak 7010 m, from the north, via Chapayev peak shoulder Category of difficulty 5B Height difference 2710 m, length – 3500 m Average steepness – 55° Pitons hammered in: rock – 25, ice – 15 Climbing hours – 18 hours Overnight stays – 2 in a tent

Description of the ascent route to Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the north-eastern edge of Chapayev Peak’s shoulder, with a complexity category of 5B.

Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. (7.9.13.) Khan-Tengri peak, 7010 m, NE rib of Chapayev peak shoulder. Route category — 5B. Route type — combined. Height difference — 2800 m, length — 9000 m, length of 5th and 6th cat. diff. sections — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used. Team's walking hours — 21:00 hrs and days — 3. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all reclining. Team leader: Alexey Vasilyevich Bolotov — MS

Description of the first ascent of Peak 6250 m in the Central Tian-Shan via the right part of the northern wall and the western ridge, category 5A, climbed by a team led by Vladimir Moskalev in 1985.

High-altitude technical class. Central Tien-Shan (Tengri-Tag). Peak 6250 m via the right part of the N wall and W ridge. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Height difference 2250 m, length — 2900 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 1710 m, 6 category of difficulty — 80 m. Average slope — 50° Pitons hammered: Rock 42, chocks 25, ice screws 102 Team's working hours: 30 hours, days — 5