Report on the ascent of the Tomsk-Novosibirsk team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North wall couloir, 5B cat. sl., Barber's route, March 25, 2019.

1. Mountain system: Tian-Shan. Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Valley: Ak-Sai. Name of the summit: p. Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m.
2. Name of the route: via the North wall couloir, №147.
3. Category of complexity: 5B.
4. Nature of the route: ice and snow.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 700 m. Route length: 900 m. Length of sections with V–VI cat. sl.: 600 m. Average steepness:

Report

Team of the Republic of Tatarstan on the ascent to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m via the northern wall couloir, 5B category of difficulty (G.Barber's route) on March 14, 2019. Team leader Coach Kazan 2019

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai valley, 7.4
2. Object of ascent — Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the northern wall couloir (G.Barber's route)
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. Route type — ice and snow

Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.

Ascent Details

1. Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
2. Route name: via the North Face couloir
3. Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
4. Route type: ice and snow

Climbing Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Tian-Shan, Aksai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the right part of the northern wall
4. Assumed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference 970 m, length — 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route — 1080 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 560 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 38, bolt — 0, chocks — 12/0, ice screws — 53/0
7. Climbing days (not including descent) — 1, hours — 17
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — one, on descent, on a gentle scree ridge
9. Leader — Artamonov Alexey Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports

PASSPORT

1. Winter class.
2. Tian-Shan, Ak-Sai valley.
3. p. S. Korea 4740 via the gully left of the "triangle" from the S side. 4.55 cat. of difficulty, 2nd ascent of Barber's route.
4. Height difference — 740 m, length — 920 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. of difficulty — 560 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58° (4000–4740 m). Of which:

• 6 cat. of difficulty — 90° (3342–3402 m).

6. Number of pitons: Ice screws — 69 pcs. Climbing hours — 11.5 hours and days — 1 day.
7. No overnight stays.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

1. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai tract, section 7.4.
2. Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, 4740 m via the couloir of the northern wall, G. Barber
3. Category 5B complexity
4. Ice-snow route
5. Elevation gain of the route — 700 m Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m. Average steepness:

• Main part of the route — 50°
• Entire route — 45°

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, 7.4.
2. Peak — Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, left of the central "triangle" and via the central couloir of the S wall
3. Category of difficulty — 5B, variation
4. Route character — combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 750 m, route length — 985 m, length of 6th category sections — 15 m, 5th category — 765 m, average steepness of the route — 64° Pitons left on the route: total — 0. Pitons used on the route:
   • stationary pitons — 0, including ITO — 0; rock hooks — 12; stoppers — 16; ice screws — 65

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter.
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge (O. Grigoryev, 97).
3. Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the N wall couloir (Barbera).
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: to the summit — 680 m. length: about 800 m. length of 6th category sections — 80 m, 5th category — 650 m. average steepness to the ridge — 60°

148

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

1991

WINTER CLASS

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) via the North wall couloir, category 5B (Barber's route) by the team from the Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee from February 26 to 27, 1991. Team captain — Master of Sports of the USSR Ivanov Valery Anatolyevich Team coach — Master of Sports of the USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich

Addresses

Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee