в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959)

Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge.

Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

• Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
• Time to cross the icefall — 1 h.

Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру.

Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h.

The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.

Path from the bivouac to the base of the wall: 15 min, then a snowy slope with a steepness of 30° degrees to the bergschrund, after passing the bergschrund — a snowy slope with a steepness of 40–50°, snow is deep, insurance through ice axe.

At a distance of 20 m from the first rocky outcrop — open ice. Further movement along the ridge of the first rocky outcrop: rocks are destroyed, of medium difficulty, insurance through ledges. At the top of the rocky island, a control cairn is set up. Time from the bivouac — 2 h.

To the base of the second rocky outcrop:

• snowy slope with a steepness of 30°
• the rocky island is bypassed from the right along the edge of the ice and rocks (1 rope),
• ascent along the rocky wall (10 m),
• traverse to the left (20 m),
• exit to the ice ridge (50 m, 50°), leading to the rocks of the 3rd island.

On the third island: rocks are destroyed, of medium difficulty and difficult, monolithic rocks are absent, passage with piton insurance. At the top, the island is traversed to the right, a control cairn is set up.

To the fourth island — an icy slope (60 m, 50°).

On the fourth island: rocks are difficult and heavily destroyed, for two ropes, reliable insurance is problematic.

The bridge between the 4th and 5th islands — icy (30 m, 50°).

On the fifth island: rocks are less destroyed, passage along the edge of the ice and rocks to the right along the way. After passing the fifth island:

• ascent 70 m upwards (50–55°, ice),
• traverse 50 m to the right to a crack in the snowy cornice,
• path to the summit along a несложному snowy ridge.

Time from the bivouac to the summit — 16 h.

Descent along the route 2A cat. dif. (2 h 30 min) to the "blue" lake. Author: S. Кострюлев, г. Братск, Nemtsev S.Yu. and others