Beliy Irkut

Report on the ascent to the summit of Tykhen-Ardy via the SE groove of the wall, category 4A, in winter.

Report On the ascent of Tykhen-Ardyn peak (3192) via the "Gutter of the southeastern wall" route, category 4A, in winter by the team of the Irkutsk Alpine Section from 09.11.2021 to 09.11.2021. I. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Zhdanov D.A. 2nd sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Antonov O.A. 1st sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | | | 1.4 | Organization | Irkutsk Alpine Section |

Climbing route description to the peak of Katka-Dura 3064 m via the southern edge, category 2B, in the Bolshoy Sayan mountain range.

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area in the Moguvek Valley, Big Sayan Ridge The climbing area is located in the Buryat Republic, on the border with Mongolia, in the Big Sayan Ridge and its part - the Munku Sardyk Ridge - in the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Beliy Irkut valleys. The hub of the area is the massif of Munku Sardyk mountain 3491 m - the highest point of the Sayan Mountains. The area is 300 km from Irkutsk in almost a strictly western direction. From Irkutsk to Mondy settlement, there is a good asphalt road of state importance. The road to the area goes as follows: From Irkutsk to Mondy settlement, there is a good asphalt road of state importance. From Mondy settlement - 25 km along a gravel road leading to the Okinsky district of the Buryat Republic, to the bridge across the Beliy Irkut River. Then the road goes to the pass. The path to the foot of Munku Sardyk mountain and the mountaineering training ground in the Moguvek valley runs along the canyon of the Beliy Irkut and Moguvek rivers from a height of 1400 to 2200 m, i.e., to the forest boundary. Features of the section: In winter, this section is traversed on ice with crampons. Above the canyon and the forest boundary, the Moguvek river valley is wide, trough-shaped. In the upper part, above the second cirque, there is a cirque lake Ehoi.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Katka-dura 3064 m via the southern edge, category 2B complexity, with a detailed analysis of the path sections and terrain features.

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area in the Mugovek Valley, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge The climbing area is located in the Buryat Republic on the border with Mongolia in the Bolshoy Sayan Ridge and its constituent part - the Munku Sardyk Ridge - in the upper reaches of the Mugovek and Beliy Irkut valleys. The hub of the area is the massif of Munku Sardyk mountain (3491 m) - the highest point of the Sayan Mountains. The area is 300 km from Irkutsk in a strictly western direction. The road passes as follows: From Irkutsk to Mondy village - a good asphalt road of state significance. From Mondy village - 25 km on a gravel road leading to the Okinsky district of the Buryat Republic, to the bridge over the Beliy Irkut River. Further, the road goes to the pass, and the path to the foot of Munku Sardyk mountain and the climbing site in the Mugovek valley passes through the canyon of the Beliy Irkut River and the Mugovek River from an altitude of 1400 to 2200 m, i.e., to the forest boundary. Features of the section: In winter, this section is traversed on ice with crampons. Above the canyon and the forest boundary, the Mugovek River valley is wide and trough-shaped. In the upper part, above the second cirque, there is a cirque lake Ehoy.

Description of a category 2B climbing route to the summit of Tykhen-Ardyn (3478 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, traversed by a group of climbers in 2005.

Ascent Passport Region – Eastern Sayan. Peak – Tykhen-Ardyn 3175 m, south spur Claimed – 2B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type – combined. Route characteristics: Total elevation gain – 1100 m. average steepness of the main part – 45°. Used on the route: fixed protection – 12 pieces. Total travel hours – 11 hours.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Tykhen-Ardyn 3475 m in the Eastern Sayan Mountains along the north-eastern ridge from Gorný Pass with a complexity category of 2B.

Ascent Passport Region — Eastern Sayan. Peak — Tykhen-Ardyn 3175 m NE ridge from Gorny pass. Category — 2A cat. dif., first ascent. Route type — combined. Route description: Total elevation gain — 1100 m, including ascent to Gorny pass. Average steepness of the main part — 40°. Equipment used on the route: protection — 6 pieces. Total climbing hours — 10 hours. Overnights — none.

Ascent description to the summit of Katka-Dura (3064 m) via the Western ridge in the **Eastern Sayan**.

Ascent Passport. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1. Katka-Dura peak, 3064 m, via the Western ridge. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent. The route is rocky in nature. Height difference 300 m, length 1000 m, average slope 20°. Driven pitons: rock and wired 2 pcs. Team's travel hours – 4 h. No overnight stays. Group:

Description of the ascent to the peak Katka-Dura (3064 m) via the Eastern ridge, category 1B in the Eastern Sayan.

Ascent Passport East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Mguvek gorge, section 6.1. Katka-Dura peak, 3064 m, via East ridge. Proposed category 1B, first ascent. Route type — rocky. Height difference 300 m, length 1000 m, average slope 20°. Pitons driven: rock and wired 2 pcs. Team's travel time — 4 hours. No overnight stays. Group:

Description of the route category 2A to the peaks Eskadrilya 1st — 3rd via the North slope, traverse, in the Eastern Sayan.

Ascent Passport Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1. Eskadrilya 1st – 3rd peak, 3177 m, via North slope, traverse. Proposed 2A cat. diff., first ascent. The route is rocky in nature. Height difference 300 m, length 940 m, average slope 30°. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 1 piece. Team's travel time — 4 hours. No overnight stays. Group:

Ascent to the summit Eskadrilya 3-ya (3177 m) via the South-Eastern Counterfort, complexity category 4A, route description and technical information.

Ascent Passport East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1. Eskadrilya 3-ya "Bantik" peak, 3177 m, via the Southeast counterfort. Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type — rock. Height difference — 300 m, length — 450 m, average steepness — 55°. Pitons driven: rock and chocks — 38 pcs. Team's travel time — 8 hours. No overnight stays. Group:

Description of the ascent route to the summit Eskadrilya 1-ya 3177 m via the East Counterfort, category 3B complexity, with technical details and photographs.

Ascent Record for Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak 3177 m via East Counterfort, Category 3B East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge, Moguvek Gorge, section 6.1.1. Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak 3177 m, via East Counterfort. Category 3B, first ascent. Route type — rock climbing. Height difference 350 m, length 595 m, average slope 45°. Pitons used: 25 rock and nut protection. Team's climbing time — 9 hours. No overnight stops on the route. Team members: