Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, p.6.1.1.
3. Arshan peak (2546), East buttress of the South ridge.
4. Proposed category 2A (first ascent).
5. Height difference of the route 470 m, length of the buttress — about 500 m, average steepness of the buttress 40°.
6. Used on the route: rock pitons — 1, chocks — 1 piece.
7. Team's travel time — 3 h 14 min.
8. Leader: Khandazhapov B. A. — Master of Sports.

Participants:

• Gutareva O. — 3rd sports category
• Shtefyuk L.A. — "Alpinist of Russia" badge
• Lunyev D.I. — "Alpinist of Russia" badge

9. Coach: Afanasyev A.E. — Master of Sports.

10. Exit to the route November 6, 2005 at 11:00, summit 14:14, return to base camp at 17:00.

Description of the ascent route to Arshan peak (2546 m) via the East buttress of the South ridge, cat. 2A.

The route follows the longest and most pronounced buttress of the South ridge, with Eastern exposure. The buttress is clearly visible against the sky from the camp, located at the beginning of the cirque.

R0–R1: 150 m, 50°, 2–3 — along the ridge of the buttress, untwisting complex rocks.

R1–R2: 250 m, 45°, 1–2 — wide ridge with snow-filled "gullies".

R2–R3: 100 m, 45°, 2–3 — pronounced rocky ridge with a sentinel, bypassed on the left, exit to the wide South ridge.

R3–R4: 300 m, 30°, 1 — wide South ridge, before the summit complexity increases to 2.

Descent along the East ridge to the saddle.

Arshan Peak 2A. UIAA Scheme