Uzunkol

Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the eastern ridge, a combined route of 5A category of complexity.

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship. Technical Altitude Class. 2024 Report on the Ascent of Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Eastern Ridge (V. Kavunenko Route, 1964), Category 5A, Combined Terrain The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, under the auspices of the "OGK" (St. Petersburg). Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak. Ascent Passport | 1. General Information | | | | :------------------------------ | :------------------------------ | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Andrey Vladimirovich Kichurchak, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Elena Vadimovna Aleksandrova, 1st sports rank | | 1.3 | Full Name of Coach, Sports Rank | D.M. Kiselev, Candidate Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, "OGK" Alpine Club |

Description of the first ascent of Dalar peak (3981 m) via the East Ridge, grade 5A, climbed by a group from Moscow's Spartak team in 1964.

Brief Characteristics of Dalar Peak Dalar Peak (elevation 3981 m above sea level) is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge. It is 25 km west-southwest of Elbrus. The chain of peaks (Filter, Zamok, Dvoinyashka, Dalar, and Shokoladny) bounds the cirque of the Bolshoy Kichkinokol glacier from the south, east, and west, giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Uzunkol River. The first ascent to Dalar Peak was made in 1937 via route 3B cat. sl. After 1960, other routes were climbed and classified on Dalar: 5B on the North Face; 5B on the NE ridge; 4B from Shokoladny Peak; 4A from the south. The ridge from the east remained, which was traversed in the reverse direction (on descent) by a group from CSKA in 1962 during the traverse of the Kichkinokol horseshoe. The route along the Eastern ridge is very logical. Sports Group Composition

Report on the ascent of Dalar Peak from the West via the rocky triangle of the Western wall, made by the instructors of the mountaineering camp in April 1975.

Report on the ascent to the summit of DALAR from the West along the rocky triangle of the Western wall a group of instructors from the mountaineering camp of CS DSO “Spartak” senior instructor ZHEMCHUZHNIKOV Yu.A., instructor LEONOVICH O.A. July 20–23, 1975 Route progression Day 1 (July 20) We left the Uzunkol mountaineering camp at 2:30, planning that an early arrival at the bivouac under the route would allow us to process the beginning of the wall. However, the approach took us longer than we expected: heavy backpacks significantly slowed our pace. We arrived at the bivouac at the end of the moraine on the plateau under the wall at 17:30.

Description of the combined route category 4B on Dalar peak from the northwest through Shokoladny peak with details of passage and terrain features.

Dalar via Northwest ridge, peak Shokoladny, combined, cat. 4B Route description: From the bivouac, traverse the plateau to reach the foot of peak Shokoladny. Ascend the snow and scree slopes, transitioning to broken rocks in the upper section, to reach the peak (category 2A difficulty). The ascent from the bivouac takes approximately 1.5 hours. From the peak's summit, descend steep rocks to the left and downwards, circumventing the first drop of the ridge via chimneys and internal corners. From the second drop of the ridge, perform a rappel to a narrow saddle adjacent to the "Palets" gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, then rappel leftwards to a ledge and follow it to regain the ridge. Subsequently, descend 25 meters down steep rocks and perform another rappel down an overhanging wall. The broken rocks lead to a saddle between peak Shokoladny and Dalar. Bivouac sites are available on the left, beneath the overhangs. The descent from the peak's summit takes around 2 hours. From the saddle, traverse rightwards along ledges that cut through Dalar's western wall, eventually leading to the main ridge beneath the summit tower. The ledges vary in width and have a general inclination to the right. From R8, a narrow cleft ascends upwards, culminating in a ledge beneath a couloir with a waterfall. Ascend via the couloir-chimney and a series of ledges (R10), overcoming a gendarme on the ridge "head-on," to reach a snowy and icy ascent leading to the junction of the north-eastern and north-western walls of the summit tower. From R13 (end of the ascent), a series of ledges traverse along the wall to R16 (avoid the edge of the ledges due to loose rocks!). From the upper ledge, ascend a narrow crevice to a vertical wall (R17–R19), then again via a crevice to reach a gap in the summit ridge (R21).

A description of the 4A mountaineering route to the summit of Dalar Uzukol, including details on traversing the pass, navigating rocky sections, and crossing snowy slopes.

Dalar Uzunkol — description of the 4A climbing route from SK Greta Approach via the Zapadny Dalar glacier to the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend to the pass along a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which is overcome via a bridge or ravine. On the pass, under the rock outcrops of the Kirpich summit ridge, is a bivouac site. From the pass, descend south, then along ledges and slopes, bypass the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar. Along snowy slopes, ascend under the rocks leading to the saddle between Maly Dalar on the left and Dalar on the right. Ascent to the saddle: Initially, it goes along small ledges, then along an internal angle with a stop R1.

Ascent to the summit of Dalar (3979 m) from the south, category 4 complexity, with a detailed description of the route and necessary equipment.

Dalar Peak — 3979 m Ascent from the south — Cat. 4A difficulty (Description as you move towards the summit) The path from the camp to Dalar Pass — see the description of the Cat. 3B route. From Dalar Pass, along the snowy slope to the left, bypassing the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar and the counterforts of Bolshoy Dalar, to the snowy isthmus between the wall of the II counterfort (on the right) and the "sheep's foreheads" (on the left). Ascend up the snow and, at the end of the isthmus, turn right onto smoothed rocks and exit onto the shoulder of the II counterfort. This is a bivouac site. First control point. From Dalar Pass — 2 hours 30 minutes. From the bivouac, to the right of the characteristic wall "camel", exit onto the ledges to a 10-meter wall. Go straight through the wall (with pitons!) onto the scree and ascend up and to the right onto a snowy slope with a slope of up to 30°. Traverse it, avoiding rocky outcrops, and, to the right of a large boulder, exit onto broken rocks and continue ascending to the saddle of the main eastern ridge of the summit tower. From the bivouac — 2 hours.

Description of the 1B alpinist route to the Ak-Tur Uzunkol summit via the Ak pass with detailed timing and characteristics of the route.

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry: ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours; along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;

Description of the combined 2B route to the Ak-Bashi summit via the Ak pass, including key sections, ascent and descent times.

Ak-Bashi from Ak Pass, combined, 2A Route description: From "Trud" campsite ascend snowy talus slopes to the foot of Ak Pass. Reach the pass via talus slope with small ledges. From the pass, follow the ridge left, bypassing the first sentinel on the right. In the first half of summer, when the ledges are covered with snow, the sentinel is ascended "head-on" along its crest. Then, via ledges right of the ridge, reach its snowy section. Ascend 400-meter snowy ridge to a saddle before the first summit. The summit is ascended via broken rocks. Descend from the summit into a gap along the right side of the ridge (loose rocks!). From here, via talus gully and broken ridge, ascend the main summit of Ak-Bashi. 6 hours from the campsite. Descent from the summit via the ascent route to the campsite takes 3 hours. Departure time from the campsite should be no later than 5:00; Ascending to Lozhny Ak Pass is not recommended as snow slabs are possible on the slope at the beginning of summer, and a steep glacier becomes exposed by the pass in autumn.

A description of the 1B mountaineering route to the top of **Ay-Petri** from the **Uzunkol** base, with a detailed analysis of the path and safety recommendations.

Ai-Petri Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta Route description: From the "Uzunkol" base, cross the bridge to the right bank of the Uzunkol river, then downstream along the bank to the third (from the bridge) green couloir. Go up along it to the left — along the stream (no trail) to the uppermost grassy saddle in the first (it's always on the right) rocky ridge. From the base — 2 hours. Through the saddle, enter the neighboring talus cirque of Ai-Petri, cross it, and approach the base of the lateral rocky couloir, which divides the visible part of the summit slope in half. The landmark for the entrance to the couloir is a separate rocky outcrop. To the right of it are "ram's foreheads", to the left — a grassy slope with rocky outcrops. Higher up, the rocks turn into walls of reddish color.