Karavshin

Report on the ascent of the Kazakhstan national team to Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the Ovcharenko Route, category 6A, in the Pamir-Alay range.

2021 World Mountain Championship, High-Altitude Technical Climbing Class Report of the National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the right edge of the northwest wall, Ovcharenko route (1988), 6A category. Ascent Passport Region, gorge: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range. Karavshin gorge. Section number according to the classification table of climbing routes № 5.4.3 (according to the FAR classifier). Name of the peak, route name: Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the right edge of the northwest wall (Ovcharenko route, № 5.4.3.24d according to the FAR classifier). Category: 6A Route type: rock Height difference of the route: 1000 m (wall section 900 m) Route length: 1200 m

### Route Description Along the Northwest Wall of the Mountain Detailed analysis of sections and technical difficulty.

Photo — 4. Date taken — 1986. Lens — Industar-52. Distance — 4 km. Shooting height — 4000 m. Shooting point number — 4. 1 — Kritsuk route on C 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 2 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" 3" wall, cat. 6 1988. 3 — Voronov route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 4 — Kopeyka route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 5 — Pogorelov route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 6 — Moroz route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 7 — Gorbenko route on C NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 8 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" NW wall, cat. 6 1988.

Description of the route "along the center of the North-West wall of the peak Asan" 6B category of complexity, climbed by a team of climbers in 1991.

Passport Category — rock climbing. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river). Peak Asan, centre of the North-West wall (Rusyayev's route). 6B category of difficulty. Height difference — 730 m. Length — 1095 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 950 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 72°. Pitons hammered: | Rock Pitons | Bolt Pitons | Nuts | Holes for sky-hooks | | :---------- | :--------- | :----- | :------------------ |

First ascent via the left part of the eastern wall of "Yellow Wall" peak in Karavshin valley, Kyrgyzstan, cat. 5A.

Ascent Passport Area — Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin Valley (Kara-Su river basin) 5.4.3. Peak — Yellow Wall, via the left part of the east wall Proposed — 5A category, first ascent Route type — rock climbing Route characteristics: Elevation gain of the main section — 600 m, route length — 800 m. length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 120 m, 5th category — 280 m

Ascent via the SW wall of Peak Slesova (4240 m) in the Pamir-Alay range, cat. 6A, 1590 m, 1200 m elevation gain, 3 days, 35+ climbing hours.

Rock climbing. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin. Peak Slesova (4240 m) — via SW wall. 6A category of difficulty, presumably, first ascent. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1590 m, average steepness 61°, steepest parts 72°, length of sections 5th category of difficulty 550 m 6th category of difficulty 336 m Pitons driven: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | Ice pitons |

Report on the first ascent of the route category 5A to the summit of Zheltyaya Stena (3800 m) in the Kara-Vishin gorge.

Report on the first ascent To the summit: Zholтая стена (3800 m) Via the route: Left of the Center of the Eastern wall, from the shelf Category of complexity: 5A cat. sl. (proposed) By the team of the Irkutsk region: Klepikov A.A., Lazarev S.A., Tokmachev A.A., Vitvitsky D.S., Kazantseva E.V. The ascent was made on July 31, 2023. I. Ascent Passport | № п.п. | 1. General Information | | | :----- | :----------------------------------------------------------------- | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |

First ascent of the northern spur of the Turkestan Range, Peak 4810, via the left part of the Northwest Wall, cat.6B難度.

I. Technical grade. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley. Peak 4810 m, via the left part of the North-West wall. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. dif. Height difference — 1260 m, length — 1760 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 1460 m. Average slope of the route — 66° Average slope of the wall part of the route — 73° Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | nut | sky-hook holes |

Description of the route of 6B category of complexity to Peak 4810 m via the right edge of the NW wall in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range.

Passport Technical class Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge Peak 4810 m, along the right edge of the NW wall 6A category of difficulty Elevation gain: 950 m. Length: 1080 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 820 m. Average steepness of the route: 70°. Average steepness of the wall section: 80°. Number of pitons driven: Rock: 47/28

Report on the ascent made by the Terekhin-Khvostenko team to the summit of Asan via a new route, category 5B, up the left part of the SW wall.

Report On the ascent to the summit of Asan via the 5B category route by the team Vasily Terekhin Oleg Khvostenko (Krasnoyarsk Krai) July 5–6, 2019 Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Terekhin Vasily Andreevich, MS | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Khvostenko Oleg Valeryevich, MS |

Report on the ascent of Maly Asan peak via the "For friends" route, category 4A, climbed by the team of Oleg Khvostenko and Ratmir Mukhametzyanov.

Report On the ascent to the summit of Maly Asan via the "Fur einen Freund" route, category 4A by the team Oleg Khvostenko – Ratmir Mukhametzyanov (Krasnoyarsk Krai) July 22, 2019 Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Khvostenko Oleg Valerievich, Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Mukhametzyanov Ratmir Nurmukhametovich, Master of Sports | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, Honored Coach of Russia; Valeiry Viktorovich Balezine |