Photo — 4. Date taken — 1986. Lens — Industar-52. Distance — 4 km. Shooting height — 4000 m. Shooting point number — 4.

1 — Kritsuk route on C 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 2 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" 3" wall, cat. 6 1988. 3 — Voronov route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 4 — Kopeyka route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 5 — Pogorelov route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 6 — Moroz route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 7 — Gorbenko route on C NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 8 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" NW wall, cat. 6 1988. 9 — Timofeev route on right part of NW wall, cat. 6 1988. 10 — Alperin route on kf 3 wall, cat. 5B 1987.

UIAA Symbol Route Diagram

| Pit. | Nuts | Bolts | Sec. # | Dist., m | Slope, deg. | Grade | | :--: | :---: | :---: | :------: | :-----------: | :------: | | 5 | 1 | 2/2 | R0 | 45 | 60° | У1А3Е | | 2 | 3 | 5/3 | R1 | 55 | 65° | У1А2e | | 1 | 2 | 3 | R2 | 25 | 70° | У1e | | 4/1 | 1 | 3 | R3 | 40 | 85° | У1e | | 4/2 | 1 | 17/4 | R4 | 100 | 80° | У1А4e | | 5 | 9/5 | | R5 | 45 | 80° | У1А2e | | 4 | 3 | | R6 | 45 | 60° | У | | 5 | 7 | | R7 | 80 | 70–75° | У1 | | 5 | 1 | | R8 | 35 | 70° | У1 | | 4/4 | 5/5 | 2 | R9 | 35 | 90° | У1А3Е | | 1 | 4 | | R10 | 35 | | У1e | | 4 | 2 | 2 | R11 | 30 | 90° | У1e | | 2 | 6 | 1 | R12 | 45 | 80° | У1e | | 16 | 1 | | R13 | 80 | 80° | У1e | | 4 | 5 | 1 | R14 | 45 | 70° | Уe | | 2 | 4 | | R15 | 40 | 60° | У+ | | 2 | 5 | | R16 | 25 | 90° | У1 | | 5 | | | R17 | 30 | 75° | У1 | | 3 | 2 | 1 | R18 | 15 | 90–100° | У1e | | 3 | 5 | 1 | R19 | 75 | 60–70° | У1e | | 1 | 6 | | R20 | 45 | 50° | У | | 4 | 8 | | R21 | 50 | 80° | У1 | | | | | R22 | 100 | 30° | II–III | | | | | R23 | | | |

Total hammered: 60/7 (pit.), 90/5 (nuts), 53/24 (bolts). Total distance: 1120 m in 49 hours.

Control points and overnight stays: R2: 1st C.Tour 3480 m, overnight stay on June 25, 1988 (5 hours). R5: 2nd C.Tour 3640 m, overnight stay on June 26, 1988 (4 hours, 13 hours). R8: 3rd C.Tour 3790 m, overnight stay on June 27–28, 1988. R16: 4th C.Tour 3990 m. Asan peak (4230 m) summit on June 29, 1988 (10 hours).

Route Description by Sections

Section R0–R2. Smooth slab with limited handholds. Climbed using skyhooks, insurance via bolt and rock pitons. 100 m, 60–65°, У1А2е. Overnight stay.

Section R2–R3. Traverse left on steep slab under overhang. Insurance point on two bolts. 25 m, 70°, У1e.

Section R3–R4. Steep wall, 10 m of extreme climbing, then AID (skyhooks). After 10 m "pendulum" (7 m) left into inner corner and then up and right along the corner. 40 m, 85°, У1e.

Section R4–R5. Vertical flake — 10 m, then absolutely smooth slab climbed on AID (skyhooks, bolt pitons). 100 m, 80°, У1А4e. 4 bolts hammered for hanging bivouac.

Section R5–R6. 10 m of artificial climbing on vertical wall (skyhooks, bolt pitons). Then right-up, crack towards "petrel" style overhang. Behind overhang, smooth inner corner leads to small ledge. Insurance point on bolts. 45 m, 80°, У1А4e.

Section R6–R7. Slab exit into inner corner. Up and left along inner corner to gentle ledge. Insurance point on large rock and pitons. 45 m, 60°, У.

Section R7–R8. Series of steep inner corners with overhangs, mid-section has overhang. Good placements for nuts. 80 m, 70–75°, У1. Convenient bivouac area.

Section R8–R9. Inner corner with limited handholds. Good placements for small stoppers. Bolt piton hammered for insurance. 35 m, 70°, У1.

Section R9–R10. Vertical smooth inner corner. Unstable weather — fog, rain. Forced to use AID. Insurance point on two bolts. 35 m, 90°, У1А3Е.

Section R10–R11. Complex "pendulum" to left smooth part of inner corner. Pendulum done in stages via intermediate insurance points (3 bolt pitons). 35 m, У1e.

Section R11–R12. Vertical wall-flake and then crack exit to narrow ledge. 30 m, 90°, У1e.

Section R12–R13. Traverse left on vertical wall, via series of vertical flakes. 45 m, 80°, У1e.

Section R13–R14. Powerful inner corner, lower part has overhang, wet. Good placements for large nuts (hexes, friends), bolt piton hammered for insurance. 80 m, 80°, У1e.

Section R14–R16. Enjoyable climbing. Good placements for small stoppers. Direction changes from left-up to right towards overhanging inner corner. 85 m, 70–60°, Уe–У+. 4th control tour at base of inner corner.

Section R16–R18. Inner corner. Free climbing on right wall cracks. 55 m, 90–75°, У1.

Section R18–R20. Powerful chimney filled with ice and dense snow, lower part overhangs. First, pass overhang, then exit to left, more gentle wall, sometimes transitioning into chimney. 90 m, 100–60°, У1e.

Section R20–R21. Gentle inner corner. 45 m, 50°, У.

Section R21–R22. Inner corner steepens, transitioning into chimney composed of large blocks. 50 m, 80°, У1.

Section R22–R23. Ridge leads to summit. 100 m, 40°, II–III. Descent from summit via NE ridge.

Photo — 5. Rusyaev–Odintsov team working on section R4–R5.

Photo — 6. Bivouac setup on section R5–R6.