I. Technical grade.

  1. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley.
  2. Peak 4810 m, via the left part of the North-West wall.
  3. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. dif.
  4. Height difference — 1260 m, length — 1760 m.
  5. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 1460 m.

Average slope of the route — 66° Average slope of the wall part of the route — 73°

  1. Pitons hammered:
rockboltnutsky-hook holes
148+IX32+3X13975
47+IX535
  1. Moving hours on the route — 69 h.
  2. Overnights: 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th — sitting on snow ledges, 3rd — lying on a ledge ("breast").
  3. Team leader: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich — Master of Sports of the USSR

Members: Lutsenko Vladimir Anatolyevich — Candidate Master of Sports, Skorokhodov Sergey Nikolaevich — Candidate Master of Sports, Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich — Candidate Master of Sports, Zhmaev Veniamin Vasilyevich — Candidate Master of Sports, Khromov Sergey Fedorovich — Candidate Master of Sports.

  1. Coach: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich — Master of Sports of the USSR, judge category 1.
  2. Processing: July 6–8, 1990.

Start of the route: July 13, 1990. Summit: July 18, 1990. Return from traverse: July 20, 1990. 12. Organization: Alpinism Department, AUSB "Varzob", MMSI mountaineering club

— ascent to peak 4810 m is part of the traverse of peaks 4810–4507–4521–4000–3800, carried out by the team of the Alpinism Department as part of the USSR Alpinism Championship, traverse class. img-0.jpeg

Photo 1. General photo of the summit. Routes:

— Route No. 1 — route climbed by the team of the Alpinism Department, first ascent, approximately 6B cat. dif. — Route No. 2 — route 6B cat. dif., Rusyaev A. — Route No. 3 — route 6B cat. dif., Kritsuk. The photo was taken on July 22, 1990, distance 2.5 km, F. 1, height — 3200 m. "Taikor" lens, focal length — 200 mm.

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