Report

On the ascent to the summit of Maly Asan via the "Fur einen Freund" route, category 4A by the team Oleg Khvostenko – Ratmir Mukhametzyanov (Krasnoyarsk Krai)

July 22, 2019

Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Khvostenko Oleg Valerievich, Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Mukhametzyanov Ratmir Nurmukhametovich, Master of Sports
1.3	Full name of the coach	Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, Honored Coach of Russia; Valeiry Viktorovich Balezine
1.4	Organization	Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1	Region	Gissar-Alay
2.2	Valley	Karavshin
2.3	Section number according to the 2013 Classification Table	5.4.3
2.4	Name and height of the summit	Maly Asan, 3800 m
	3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1	Name of the route	Via the north ridge "Fur einen Freund" ("For Friends", Germany, 2003)
3.2	Difficulty category	4A
3.3	Degree of route exploration	-
3.4	Relief characteristics of the route	Rock
3.5	Elevation gain of the route	460 m
3.6	Length of the route	540 m
3.7	Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of varying difficulty with indication of relief character (ice-snow, rock))	II, III cat. rock — 125 m. IV cat. rock — 140 m. V cat. rock — 55 m. VI cat. rock — 220 m. Free climbing level up to 6B+ on the French scale
3.8	Average steepness of the route, (°)	60°
3.9	Average steepness of the main part of the route, (°)	60°
3.10	Descent from the summit	Via the E wall
3.11	Additional characteristics of the route
	4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1	Time in motion	5 h
4.2	Overnights	-
4.3	Time spent on route preparation	-
4.4	Start of the route	9:00, July 22, 2019
4.5	Reach the summit	14:00, July 22, 2019
4.6	Return to the base camp	16:00, July 22, 2019
	6. Person Responsible for the Report
6.1	Full name, e-mail	Khvostenko O.V., 79039240941@yandex.ru

From the "For Friends" group, GER 2003, Mukhametzyanov–Khvostenko, 2019, 4A category. Taken from the Yellow Wall viewpoint. July 2019. Route profile on the left

descent path. Route profile Shaitankhana peak, 4521 m

Area Map

Area Description

The Karavshin area is well described. The Maly Asan peak is located in the northern spur of the Asan peak. Several routes have been laid out on Maly Asan by foreign climbers. This summit is very popular among them because it is close to the Karasu base camp. The approach to the routes takes 30–60 minutes. The length of the routes ranges from 300 to 600 meters. To date, there are no routes on Maly Asan in the Russian classifier. Meanwhile, its close location and the presence of rappel loops for descent allow for quick training ascents of 3A–4B difficulty categories. This is particularly relevant:

for training groups;
as well as for ascents in unstable weather conditions.

Technical photo of the route

Start of the route

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

№	Length, m	Angle	Category
R11	—	—	—
R10	50	40°	II, 6А (15 m)
	20	85°	6Б+
R8	60	50°	II, III
	60	60°	III, IV
R7	55	55°	IV
	45	60°	6А
R5	60	70°	6А+
	55	60°	IV
R3	45	70°	6Б
	35	70°	6А
R1	55	60°	5С

Tactical Actions of the Team

The route was climbed after consultations with German climbers who made the first ascent of this route in 2003. The ascent was made with the goal of adding the route to the Russian classifier. The entire route was climbed free by both participants. Ratmir Mukhametzyanov led. The weather during the ascent was good. No notes were found at the summit.

Descent from the Maly Asan summit via the east wall (towards Kyrkchilta peak) involved 7 rappels, equipped with rappel loops.

Route Description by Sections

Approach from the base camp along the trail to Asan peak takes 20 minutes, then up the slope to the foot of Maly Asan peak.

R0–R1: Start along a large internal corner, then along the wall. Exit left to a good ledge. 55 m, 5C.

R1–R2: Along a monolithic internal corner to a small ledge. 35 m, 6A.

R2–R3: Continue the corner in the upper part, turning into an overhanging chimney. Move along the left wall. Exit beyond the lip. 45 m, 6B.

R3–R4: A gentle internal corner, then a system of ledges and corners. 55 m, IV.

R4–R5: Along a large internal corner ending in an overhang, which is bypassed on the left. Exit beyond the lip. 60 m, 6A+.

R5–R6: System of corners and ledges. 45 m, 6A.

R6–R7: Continue the system of corners. Exit to a large ledge via a chimney. 55 m, IV.

R7–R8: Along a system of corners, walls, and ledges, exit to the shoulder. 60 m, III, IV.

R8–R9: Traverse along the ridge, approach the wall with a wide crack along a ledge. 60 m, II, III.

R9–R10: Wall with a wide crack is climbed in an off-width style, exit to a large ledge with rocks. 20 m, 6B+. Possible to bypass on the left.

R10–R11: Along the ledge to an internal corner — 15 m. Then along the ridge to the summit — 50 m, 6A (15 m).

Descent

From the summit, a short rappel towards Shaitankhana. Descend along ledges, veering south (towards Odessa peak). Six full rappels from a blue loop along the east wall of Maly Asan peak.