1. Ascent from Kichkinekol Pass - category 2B difficulty
  2. Ascent via the northwest ridge - category 3B difficulty (Description of the path as you move towards the summit)
  3. Ascent from Kichkinekol Pass - category 2B difficulty

From the "Uzunkol" camp, along the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the lateral step of the Sredny Kichkinekol glacier cirque. Along the stream, up the path to the green step under the "sheep's foreheads" - a bivouac site - "ice overnight stays". From the camp - 2.5 hours.

From the bivouac, left into the green couloir and then along the ridge of the large gray moraine to the snow-ice plateau of the Sredny Kichkinekol glacier.

From here, to the right across the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol Pass. Along the middle part of the slope (in teams!) - then closer to the slopes of Filtr peak (insurance!) - exit to the upper snow step and along it to the left to Kichkinekol Pass. From the bivouac site - 2-2.5 hours.

From the pass, to the right, and then to the left-down, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads" along the shelf and then along the couloir - exit to a gentle scree. From here, to the left of the ridge to the gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left along the shelf (insurance! Pitons!) and exit to the ridge to the "trapezoidal" gap. Descent into the gap - fixed ropes (insurance!). Behind the snow bridge of the gap - (insurance!) - ascent to the left to the gentle part of the ridge, along which to the beginning of the descent into the next "triangular" 20-meter gap. At the beginning, to the right along the corner 6 m to a platform and then descent to the left along the rocks (fixed ropes, which are removed on the return). To the sharp snow bridge - (insurance!). From the bridge, to the left-up along the shelf 20 m, then along the chimney-crack to the right-up (insurance!) to the snow ridge. Further along the left side of the ridge - exit to the summit (on the ridge to the right, cornices!!).

From the pass to the summit 4-5 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 4-5 hours.

When descending, pay special attention to insurance when exiting the triangular gap and descending from Kichkinekol Pass.

Recommendations for climbers

  1. Number of participants in groups - no more than 10 people.
  2. Initial bivouac - lateral step.
  3. Time of exit from bivouac - no later than 4:00 am.
  4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) ropes 2 × 40 m; b) expendable cord - 5 m; c) auxiliary rope - 1 × 40 m; d) rock pitons - 3-4 pcs; e) ice pitons - 2-3 pcs; f) crampons - 4 pairs; g) rock hammers - 2 pcs; h) carabiners - 7-8 pcs - in the second half of summer.
  5. Places for possible overnight stays - on Kichkinekol Pass, on the ridge when exiting the "triangular" gap.

From the platform to the right along the ridge, along the border of snow and rocks - exit to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit - 7-8 hours. Descent along the 2B route to the bivouac takes 4-5 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

  1. Number of participants in the group - no more than 4-6 people.
  2. Initial bivouac - "ice overnight stays".
  3. Time of exit from bivouac - no later than 4:00 am.
  4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) ropes 2 × 40 m; b) expendable cord - 5 m; c) rock pitons - 6-8 pcs; d) ice pitons - 2 pcs - in the second half of summer; e) crampons - 4 pairs; f) rock hammers - 2 pcs; g) carabiners - 8-9 pcs; h) tent-bag - 1 pc.
  5. Places for possible bivouacs - on the ridge before the gendarme, on the descent - before the "triangular" gap, on Kichkinekol Pass.

Attached files

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment