M93. Chat-Bashi Western peak via the northern spur

(rock route, category 3A, first ascent by P. Zakharov, 1960) From Chat bivouac, head left towards the talus slopes of Chat-Bashi peak. From here, traverse diagonally up and to the right at an angle of 35-40° to reach the western ridge of the peak. If you ascend too high along the ridge, the descent into the cirque of Chat pass will be challenging, involving rappelling down steep walls and rock fractures. After descending to the cirque via simple slopes, ascend to the pass via snowy and talus slopes. From the pass, descend to its eastern side and approach the base of the northern spur via a snowy slope - it's the right-hand spur relative to the large couloir that runs from the summit ridge down to the pass. Then, ascend leftwards via ledges and short walls to reach the shoulder of the spur. From the shoulder, follow the ridge, tackling an 80-meter wall (R2, bypass on the left side), a rocky "saw" (R4, ascend directly), and then ascend via rocks to the left of the ridge and a difficult 7-meter wall to reach the main ridge of the spur. Continue along the ridge to a grey inclined slab (R7). Ascend via a crack that leads to a small depression, and from there back onto the ridge. If the slab is icy or covered in snow, ascend to the depression from the base of the right edge of the slab via a section of overhanging rock (tense climbing). Follow the degraded 200-meter rocky ridge to reach the Western peak. The ascent from bivouac takes 7-8 hours. Descend from the peak via talus slopes in the direction of Chat campsite. The descent from the peak to bivouac takes 2 hours.

• initial bivouac - Chat campsite, departure time - no later than 5:00 AM;
• avoid entering the couloir to the left of the route - rockfall and avalanches!
• the route is generally safe from rockfall, except for the lower section before reaching the ridge;
• there is no bypass for the grey slab R7 on the left - rocky ledges create an illusion of a viable passage.

Chat-Bashi

Eastern — Western (Pровал)

• R8 Degraded rocky ridge 200 m II
• R7 Grey slab 20 m 45° III+
• R6 Rocky ascent along the ridge 80 m 65° III+
• R5 7 m 70° IV
• R4 Rocky "Saw" 100 m II+
• R3 40 m 50° III
• Col
• R2 40 m 65° III+
• Chat Pass
• R1 Degraded rocks 150 m II+
• R0 40 m 50° III
• Snowy-talus slope - ascent to Chat Pass

Note: Movement from R0 to the Col is on the left side of the ridge