M53. Peak Uzunkol via the Northwest Ridge

(rock route, category 2B difficulty, led by a Czechoslovak team, 1973) From "Uzunkol", follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the first shepherds' huts. Then, cross two branches of the river and follow the trail to a large clearing, 200 m before the rockfall on the left bank of Myrdy.

From here:

• Ascend left-upwards along grassy slopes and overgrown moraine, bypassing the false peak that rises with large sheer walls above the fork of Myrdy — Kichkinekol.
• Continue along grassy slopes and scree to the cirque between the northwest and west ridges of Peak Uzunkol.
• From here, ascend the scree slope, a short snowpatch, and rocks to the depression in the northwest ridge.

From "Uzunkol" — 3.5 hours.

Then:

• Follow the ridge to the right and, bypassing the first gendarme on the left via a large ledge and slope, overcome the second gendarme "head-on", leaving the rock "finger" below to the right.
• From here, descend on the right side of the ridge to a col to the next small gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a ledge R0.
• Ascend simple rock formations on the ridge and an 80-meter (45–50°) ascent R2 (bypass on the right) to the ridge.
• Continue along the ridge to the "Pila" gendarme R4.
• Bypass on the right via a ledge ("live" blocks!).
• Then ascend slabs to the ridge behind the last tooth of "Pila" R5.
• Ascend rock formations on the ridge resembling "ram's foreheads", then "head-on" up a 10-meter wall to the summit ridge and onwards to the summit.

From the shoulder of the ridge to the summit — 5 hours.

Descent from the summit:

• Follow the ascent route to the "Pila" gendarme.
• From it, descend left-downwards along a scree gully and ledges to the cirque.
• Then descend into the Myrdy gorge and follow the trail back to "Uzunkol".

From the summit — 3 hours.

• The ascent is completed without an intermediate bivouac;
• Departure time from "Uzunkol" should be no later than 5:00 AM;
• Do not cross the rockfall in the Myrdy gorge — it serves as a landmark for the start of the ascent along grassy slopes;
• In fog, the exit to the northwest ridge is complicated — there is a risk of heading towards the false peak. 53