Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m
Traverse in both directions — category 3A
From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays".
From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass.
Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass.
From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau.
From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!!
From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay!
After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks.
From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.
Along the col ridge to a gendarme composed of large blocks:
- approach head-on — belay! Pitons!
Beyond the gendarme, a gap precedes a 15 m wall.
The wall is ascended via the right-hand part:
- belay! Pitons!
- without entering the corner
Beware — rockfall!
Continue along the ridge to the western peak, reaching it via a series of small and steep — belay! — chimneys.
From the eastern to the western peak — 4–5 hours. Descend from the western peak to a saddle towards a "finger", then descend to the southern side and continue around the peak from the south onto a ridge that eventually splits into two branches. One branch leads towards the Dalar River — the second — towards the Zamok glacier. Descend via the second branch onto the glacier plateau and then exit to the starting point of the ascent during the traverse.
From the western peak to the Kichkinekol pass — 3.5–4 hours. Depart from the Kichkinekol pass bivouac no later than 3:00 AM to complete the entire glacier traverse before sunrise!
Recommendations for Climbers
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Group size — 6–8 people.
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Initial bivouac — Kichkinekol pass.
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Departure time from bivouac — no later than 3:00 AM.
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Special equipment for a group of 4 people:
a) main rope — 2×40 m; b) expendable rope — 5 m; c) rock pitons — 6–7 pcs.; d) carabiners — 8 pcs.; e) rock hammers — 2 pcs.; f) ice screws — 3 pcs. In the second half of summer, 1–2 pairs of crampons for ascending and descending to the Kichkinekol pass.
- When undertaking other ascents in the Chyornye Bashni — Chungur cirque, it is recommended to set up a bivouac on the scree islands below Chungur-Dzhar or Chungur-Bashi peaks.