3. Ascent to the peak of Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass 2A cat. diff. 3610 The path to Kichkinekol Pass see the description of the ascent to Kichkinekol from Kichkinekol Pass. From Kichkinekol Pass:

• Descend down and under the slopes of the peak Kich-Kinekol by traversing snowy slopes in the direction of Chugur Pass.
• In case of difficult snow cover on these slopes from Kichkinekol Pass, descend directly to the Zamok glacier plateau and approach the slopes of Chugur Pass along the plateau. Ascent to the ridge slightly to the left of the pass point — between the right big gendarme and two rocky “sails”. Without going to the ridge between them, move left along a wide grassy shelf bypassing the next gendarme. From it, descend 10 m and bypass the second gendarme along the shelf, after which exit to the ridge. The entire bypass is about 150 m. Belay! From the ridge, directly through the rocky ascent of the ridge and along the ridge with small gendarmes to a smooth gendarme 10–12 m high with shelves. Pass either directly head-on (belay! pitons!), or bypass from the left (if there is no snow and flow ice on the shelves!). After the gendarme, approach the summit tower along the ridge, which is passed along a rocky groove — 30 m. Belay! And exit to the summit.

KU­UK­U­HE­KOT

Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B

Route Description

From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours. From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5. Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):

• Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
• Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it. From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours. Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
• Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.

M5. Djalpakol via the Eastern Ridge

(climbing route, category 2B, first ascent by A. Fridman, 1959) The path to the eastern ridge of Djalpakol is visible from the bivouac - it's a large talus couloir that leads to the first left, lowest, notch in the ridge immediately after its rocky section. Ascent via the couloir:

• yellow-colored talus (loose rocks!) Upon reaching the ridge:
• turn right;
• move along weathered rocks with individual rock walls After about 300 m, ascend to the beginning of the narrow part of the ridge. From here, reach the gendarme and bypass it on the left — R1. Sections R3 and R5 require piton protection! The key sections are:
• the light-colored rise of the ridge,

Krugozor Mordy Peak — 3476 m

Ascent via the northern ridge — 2A (Description as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp:

• along the left bank of the Uzunkol River
• cross to the right bank and down it for 350 m to a wide grassy couloir (visible from the camp)
• up the couloir, to the right of the stream, to the confluence with the left wide couloir
• exit into the Kr. Mordy peak cirque On the green terraces — a bivouac. From the camp — 2 hours.

Report

on the passage of Krugozor-Myrdy, 2A cat. sl. of the Popov V.I. team

Myrdy East from Myrdy Pass, 1B

Route Description:

The ascent to Myrdy Plateau is described in the route "Gvandra East from Ak-Tyube Pass" (14). From the plateau, turn left, leaving Gvandra Malaya peak to the right, and head towards Myrdy Pass. In its middle section, the glacier may be heavily broken. In this case, one should ascend to the sub-pass slope via the glacier on the left, passing under the walls of Kirpich peak. The ascent to the pass slope presents no technical difficulties. Directly under the pass rocks, a 5 m wide bergschrund may be encountered. It is overcome by descending to the bottom of the crevasse and then ascending via crumbling ledges, slippery rocks, and small talus. Beyond the pass, to the south, lies a large snow "dome" plateau. From the "dome", move right, bypassing the lower part of the eastern ridge of Myrdy peak. Ascend to the ridge via a pronounced yellow-colored talus and a long ledge. Then, moving along the snowy part of the ridge, bypass a 40-meter rock face via ledges and snow (R16–R17) and ascend to the slabs in its middle section. Beyond the slabs, follow the ridge to reach the East summit. From Myrdy bivouac — 5–6 hours. The descent via the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3 hours.

Myrdy Western — Eastern, combined, 2A

Route Description

The ascent to the Lожный Мырды (False Myrdy) pass is described in the “Гвандра Восточная с перемычки от Центральной вершины” (Gvandra Eastern from the saddle of Tsentralnaya peak)” route (16). From the pass, descend to the southern side of the ridge onto the first ledges, and traverse left along them with a slight gain in altitude to a long ledge running along the southern side of the ridge beneath the cliffs of the Western summit R2. Approximately from the middle of the ledge:

• ascend left and upwards 30 m via an inner corner,
• followed by a series of ledges leading to the western ridge (protection!). A prominent overhanging rock R7 on the right serves as a landmark. Follow the straightforward 200-meter ridge to reach the Western summit. From the pass, it takes 4 hours. From the Western summit, staying close to the right side of the ridge, approach a narrow couloir R8. In the first half of summer:
• there are numerous cornices on the left side of the ridge,
• inner corners are filled with snow.

I. North Caucasus Championship in the name of S. M. Kirov

Category of technically complex ascents

Report on the ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhara via the north-eastern edge, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent)

Team composition:

1. Team leader — Pomazuev V. V., born 1941, Candidate Master of Sports, "Burevestnik", Kiev
2. Deputy leader — Savchuk V. A., born 1940, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev
3. Participant — Yakovlev V. A., born 1938, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev
4. Participant — Kuzmuk V. V., born 1952, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev
5. Participant — Bodnik V. N., born 1949, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev

The peak B. Nakhar 3780 m is located in one of the spurs of the Greater Caucasus Range. The climbing area is characterized by a significant distance between the base camp and the nearest settlement. From Uchkulan, a mountain road goes along the Gondoray valley to the reserve. This road often becomes impassable for vehicles in bad weather. It takes 3 hours to drive from Uchkulan to the reserve. Then the road goes to the Makhar valley, to the right and up to the tourist camp "Globus" and further to the narzan springs, then through a swampy lowland to the logging area, near which there is a large clearing ending with a log across the Makhar River. In good weather, a car can drive right up to the clearing, which becomes impossible after heavy rains. Our car was able to pass along the road through the swamp after five days of excellent weather. From the bridge, the trail goes along the right bank of the Makhar River to a side valley leading to peak Nakhar. From the point where the stream flows into the river, the trail follows the stream and moraine through:

• sheep's foreheads,
• glacier, to the base camp location on a lateral moraine. It takes two days to travel from the bridge to the base camp. This time depends on the amount of gear for the planned number of days. It is convenient to set up the base camp in the upper part of the moraine, where it flattens out noticeably. The route to peak B. Nakhar was first climbed in 1974 by a group from L.O.S.D.S.O. "Zenit" via the northeast wall, category 6B. The team consisted of:
• I. Korablin — captain