Northwestern Caucasus

Mountain range16,851.32 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Climbing certificate for Kirpich peak via South wall, route description, technical details and team composition.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — ROCK
  2. Ascent region — Gl. Kavk. ridge from Nakhar pass. 3. Ascent route — Mt. KIRPICH via South face, 0 variant. 4. Ascent characteristics: length — route 1000 m, wall 680 m; height difference — route 820 m, wall 670 m; average steepness — wall 90°; length of difficult sections — 680 m; 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 109 expansion — 13
  3. Number of travel days — 3 Number of hours — 37, number of nights — 2, bivouac, no water. Team —
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Description of the ascent of the CS DSO "Trud" team to the summit of Kirpich via the North-North-East wall, a 6th category of difficulty route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category: rock
  2. Ascent area: recreation centre "Uzunkol"
  3. Ascent route indicating peaks, their altitudes, route complexity (and other approximate details): — peak Kirpich, 3744 m above sea level, 6B, via the North-Northeast wall.
  4. Ascent characteristics: — Route length (wall): 1080 m — Height difference (wall): 850 m — Average steepness (wall): 78° — Length of difficult sections:
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Description of the passage of the Manoylov's route, category 6A difficulty level, on the western wall of the peak Kirpich in Uzun-Kol.

Kirpich, Manoylov's Route, 6A

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
  3. Kirpich peak (3800 m), via the "diamond" of the West wall, Manoylov's route.
  4. 6A cat. difficulty.
  5. Height difference 700 m, length 1060 m, length of climbing sections V (4c–5a) (1) cat. difficulty – 160 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. difficulty – 95 m, length of climbing sections VII+ (6c) cat. difficulty – 32 m, A0 – 3 m. Average slope of the route – 50°, slope of the wall section – 80°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock: wired/stoppers: bolted: 0/15* 30/0 0/25* * — previously driven
  7. Team's working hours 17 h, 2 days, ascent, descent on the day of reaching the summit.
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Description of the 6A category difficulty route to Pik Kirpich via the "diamond" on the western wall in the Western Caucasus.

PASSPORT

I. Category — rock. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. 3. Pik Kirpich — via the "diamond" on the western wall. 4. 6A category difficulty (route by Yu. Manoylov, 1968) 5. Route length: 1070 m Height difference on the route: 840 m Average steepness of the wall section: 77° Height difference of the wall section: 440 m Length of the wall section: 490 m

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Description of the 6A category complexity route via the "diamond" on the West face of Kirpich peak in the Western Caucasus, with details on the passage and photographs.

Ascent Passport

  1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol area, Myrdy gorge, section number according to the classification table 2.3
  2. Kirpich peak, via the "diamond" on the Western wall (Yu. Manoylov's route)
  3. 6A category of complexity
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route height difference: 800 m Route length: 1010 m Length of sections: 5th category of complexity — 155 m, 6th category of complexity — 125 m Average steepness: main part of the route — 80° entire route — 62°
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Description of the 6A category difficulty route through the "diamond" of the Western wall of the Kirpich peak, 3800 m, in the Western Caucasus.

Passport

  1. Class — technical
  2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge.
  3. Peak Kirpich, 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the West Wall
  4. Complexity category 6A.
  5. Height difference — 860 m (2940–3800), wall section — 460 m (2940–3400) Length — 1055 m, wall section — 505 m. Length of sections:
  • 6th cat. diff. — 130 m
  • 5th cat. diff. — 270 m
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Ascent to the summit of Kirpich via the West Face, category 5B, climbed by the LOS DSO "Trud" group in 1968.

1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition:

  1. Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS
  2. Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS
  3. Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS
  4. Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS
  5. Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged.

V. Kirpich

![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg "width":1401,"height":1923,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg","id":64745582)

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Report on the ascent of Category 5B route on the western wall of "Kirpich" peak (3800 m) in the Caucasus, Uzunkol valley, in 1983.

I. Rock Class

  1. Rock Class
  2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
  3. Peak "Kirpich", 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the western wall
  4. Category 5B difficulty
  5. Elevation gain — 710 m, length — 960 m, length of sections with R5–R6 difficulty — 330 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 85°
  6. Pitons hammered:
    • rock: 39 (new), 4 (previously hammered)
    • bolt: 15 (new), 8 (previously hammered)
    • chocks: 69 (new), 8 (previously hammered)
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Description of the passage of a category 5B climbing route up the western wall of Kirpich Peak in the Western Caucasus.

Passport

I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, Gvandra region. 3. Pik Kirpich, via the "diamond" on the western wall, Manoilov's route, category 5B difficulty. 4. Sixth ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 670 m; route length 1370 m; sections: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 170 m, R4 — 400 m. Elevation gain of the "diamond" wall — 240 m, section lengths:

  • R6 — 250 m,
  • R5 — 90 m,
  • R4 — 20 m.
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The first ascent of the West face of Kirpich Peak (3800 m) in the Caucasus via a route rated at grade 6A, completed by a team consisting of Pugachev S.A., Zagirnyak M.V., Verbitskiy O.M., and Revunov N.V. in August 2007.

CIS Championship 2007

High-altitude technical class Classification Commission of the FAR

Report

on the first ascent of the route to peak Kirpich (3800 m) via the left part of the Western wall, category 6A (KTMGV item 2.3), made by the team of the Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Team leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor 2nd category Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Master of Sports, instructor 1st category. Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Chairman: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilievich Ukraine, 91005, Dalnevostochnaya str., 2D

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