Fig. 32

5. Ascent to the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3700 m) from the north — category (Fig. 32)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail to the crossing over the Dombay River (2 hours). After crossing the river, ascend via grassy slopes, scree, and "ram's foreheads" on the left side of the Iné Glacier. Ascend up the glacier to a snow plateau, then move right towards the "ram's foreheads," and ascend them to the scree. Continue left along the massif of Pik Iné to the first glacial couloir (be cautious of rockfall danger from Pik Iné!). Ascend the couloir left of Pik Iné to the col. Characteristics of the couloir:

• Lower section: ice and snow (ice in the second half of summer)
• Upper section: rocky
• Traverse in a rope team (danger of rockfall!) The col is a suitable bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7–8 hours. From the col, ascend via a glacier crevassed in some areas and a snow plateau to the right, towards the northern ridge of the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat. Ascend a steep snow slope on the left side of the ridge to a 5-meter rusty wall with a slope of 80°. Ascend the wall (2 pitons) and continue via loose rocks, slabs, and a crevice on the left side of the ridge to a 3-meter loose wall. Pass through it to a platform (suitable for bivouac). From the platform, ascend to a wide ledge and along it to the left to a double crevice. After 20 meters in the crevice, exit to a small ridge notch descending from the peak to the northeast. Continue traversing left on ledges through a ridge crest, then again on ledges to the eastern ridge and along it to the right to the summit. From the col, 6–7 hours. Almost the entire path is prone to rockfall! Descent follows the ascent route, 4–5 hours. Use rappelling on steep sections.

Fig. 30

2. Ascent to the main summit of Dzhuguturluchat via the northern slope - category (see Fig. 30)

From Abalakovskaya bivouac to the left-up along the glacier, bypassing ice falls from the left, then to the right-up along the slope between the ice falls and the rocky island.

• At first, the slope is gentle - 200-250 m
• Then the steepness increases to 45°, in some places - up to 50° (belay!)
• In the second half of summer, there is ice on this section; ice screws are necessary for belay (45-50°, belay!) Further to the right - up to the northwest ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac

Fig. 32

6. Ascent to the eastern peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3800 m) from the north — cat. dif. 3B (see Fig. 32)

From the saddle to the left of Iné peak along the plateau upwards along the northern ridge to a wide (50° slope) ice-snow couloir, crossing a bergschrund and up the ice-snow couloir to a snow pad on the northern ridge (belay; in the second half of summer — ice, ice screws, crampons!). Further along the ridge and through a destroyed gendarme (2 pitons, rockfall hazard!) on the ridge — exit under the obelisk of the summit. After the gendarme, left along a steep snow patch (belay, in case of ice — ice screws!) 60–70 m and exit onto rocks. On the rocks:

• ascent to a narrow couloir going up (2 pitons!)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass
3. Peak, height, ascent route — Dzhalovchat (Uzlovaya), 3680 m, via the northeast ridge, combined, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 480 m, length of sections: category I difficulty — 1240 m, category II difficulty — 830 m, category III difficulty — 60 m, Total — 2130 m, average steepness of the ridge section — 35°
6. Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolt, placed elements. | for belay | 6 | 1 | - | 10 | |---|---|---|---|---|

Ascent Passport

• Snow-ice

2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Naruk station
3. Peak, ascent route — Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya from Dkh pass
4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m
6. Number of overnight stays — none
7. Number of walking hours — 6

Description

Climb route #49 to peak Dzhalovchat (Uzl) Cat. 1B to col Dzhalovchat. From the Alibek base camp follow the trail to the Turye lake. Pitch a bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend first along the green moraine starting from the lake, and then along the "ram's foreheads" and the glacier in the direction of the Dzhalovchat col. 200-250 m before the col, turn left and then move along the eastern slope of peak Sunakhet. Cross the marginal crevasse and ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the saddle between peaks Sunakhet and Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya (the glacier is heavily crevassed, belay!!!). Then, ascend along the ridge with snow and ice ridges to peak Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya. From the bivouac at the Turye lake, the ascent takes 6-8 hours. Descend back to the original bivouac via the same route.

Route Conclusion

The group believes that the route they have taken is no less difficult and long compared to a similar route to peak Sofrudju, and corresponds to a Cat. 1B route.

Fig. 13

1. Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours. From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours.

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people.
2. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.

Ascent Passport

Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. German Komsomol Peak (3600 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: rock climbing. Height difference: 560 m. Route length: 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 240 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route from section R0 to section R25 (up to the top of the tower) 72°
• entire route from start to summit 60° Pitons left on the route — 8, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used:

Ascent Record

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Dombay Region, North-West Caucasus. 3. German Comsomol Peak, ~3600 m, from Belalakaysky Glacier. 4. Category of difficulty — 2A. 5. The route is combined, with a height difference from the glacier of ~1000 m. 6. Belay — without pitons. 7. Number of climbing hours from the moraine bivouac: ascent 5–6 hours, descent — 3 hours. 8. Training group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Kruchikov Yu. — III, Koblyakov V. — III, Rakhmatov R. — III, Galimyanov N. — III

Fig. 54

1. Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen (3915 m) via the east wall — Category 4B difficulty (Fig. 54)

From Dombay plain to the Northern refuge by car. From the Northern refuge, across the river Hokel via a log, and then to the Chotcha glade — bivouac. From the bivouac:

• Up the snowy slope towards the second eastern ridge of Bolshoy Buulgen
• Further ascent predominantly along the ridge to the first shoulder via steep (50–55°), местами за­рос­шим тра­вой ска­лам (стра­хов­ка!)
• After traversing 80–90 m along the ridge shoulder, descend to the right onto the glacier (крю­чьевая страховка!) — 40 m rappel and through the randkluft to exit onto the glacier