Northwestern Caucasus
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent of the instructors team from the "Dombai" alpine camp to the top of Main Karakaya via the NW wall of the left part in 1974, description of the route of the 6th category of difficulty.
Report on the Ascent in the Area
of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp:
- SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS
- KOROTKOV V.A. — MS
- KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS
- PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS
- MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS
- AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to the summit Main Karakaya (3890 m) via the Eastern ridge, difficulty category 3A, technically challenging rock routes in the Western Caucasus.
- Class of ascent: technically complex
- Region of ascent ridge: Western Caucasus, Karvkeysky spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Kara-Kaya node between South-Karvkeysky and Mvruhsky passes.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Glavnaya Karakaya, 3890 m. Rocky route along the Eastern ridge.
- Estimated category of difficulty: — 3А
- Characteristics of the route: height difference 570 m. Average steepness 33°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none.
- Number of pitons driven: For belaying for creating artificial support points | rock | 9 | 2 (organization of descents) |
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the first ascent via the Eastern ridge of the summit Glavnaya Kara-Kaya with 3A difficulty category, made in 1975 by a group of climbers from alpinist camp “Aksaut”.
пр. № 431 от 1/3-77, п.4. ЗА, пп.
Report on the Ascent of Main Kara-Kaya Peak via the First Ascent Route on the Eastern Ridge, approximately Category 3B difficulty, August 8, 1975
Main Kara-Kaya Peak is located in the Karakai spur of the Main Caucasian Range. The peak can be accessed via four ridges:
- Eastern
- South-Eastern
- Northern
- South-Western Favorable weather conditions, convenient access routes, and an abundance of classified and unclassified routes of various difficulty levels make this peak highly interesting for mountaineers. The following routes have been classified on Main Kara-Kaya Peak:
- via the South-Eastern ridge — Category 2B
Route Description: СВ гребню
### Ascent route to Peak KAP via North-Eastern ridge, category IIb difficulty, 700 m elevation gain, 6 hours of climbing.
DESCRIPTION
of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT
- Ascent class — rock climbing
- Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
- Summit
Route Description: с л. Белалакайский
Description of the ascent route to peak U1 451 in the Caucasus Range area, complexity category - 1A.
REPORT
- on the ascent made in the area ch. Caucasian ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Pakhar pass to the summit of KAP PIK (3400 m) from the Belalakaisky glacier (from the north)
Group Members:
- Slezyn Yu. — MS
- Ovcharenko V.D. — 1st sports category
- Pilipenko V.S. — 1st sports category
- Volkov L.B. — 1st sports category
Route Description: с л. Алибек
### Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) via Category 1B Route Three route options, equipment recommendations, and optimal departure time guidance for climbers.
Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16)
From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options: 1st option:
- To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge.
- Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!).
- The upper part of the ridge is scree.
- The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit.
- The summit dome is snow-covered.
- The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours.
- Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.
Route Description: правому кф. З стены
Report on the first ascent of the route category IV-B to the summit of Pik Maly Ine (Gold) 3060 m via the right buttress of the western wall.
Report
On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Pik Maly Ine (Gold) 3060 m
via the right buttress of the western wall. Presumably IV-B category of difficulty. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — leader, Popov M. L. — Candidate for Master of Sports
2. Caucasus
2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass
Participants of the ascent
- Leader — Semyonov Mikhail Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya st., 8, apt. 117. Tel.: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: aravigehc@mail.ru
- Popov Mikhail Lvovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, Essentuki.
Route Description: В ребру
Report on the ascent of the ARKHYZ alpine club team to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m via the Eastern ridge, complexity category 4B, first ascent.
Report
On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkessia national team to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m via the Eastern ridge. Presumably category IV-B. First ascent.
Semenov M. A. — team leader, Popov M. L. — Candidate for Master of Sports
2. Caucasus
2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
Climbing participants
- Team leader — Semenov Mikhail Aleksandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrosteel, Oktyabrskaya str., 8, apt. 117. Phone: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: aravigehc@mail.ru
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the ascent to Peak Inylchek (3409 m) via the northwest ridge, a category 4A climb, made by a group of climbers in 1973.
REPORT
on the ascent of Pik Ine (3409 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass, via the northwest ridge, category 4A (approximately).
- The route was first climbed in 1960 by a group led by Macevitogo Yu.M. July 30 – August 1, 1973, the ascent was made by a group from "Alibek" tourist center, consisting of:
-
- Kokodiy N.G. — 2nd sports category — leader
-
- Borodenko Yu.A. — 1st sports category
-
- Chepeleva I.P. — 2nd sports category
-
- Kononenko V.I. — 2nd sports category
- Brief geographical description of the ascent area Pik Ine (3409 m) — a low, beautiful pointed peak, fully justifying its name ("Needle"), is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Dzheguturoluchat horseshoe in the area of its eastern peak. The peak is clearly visible from Dombay поляна.
Route Description: По леднику С склона
Report on the ascent to the summit of Klukhor-Bashi 3450 m via the glacier of the northern slope, category 1B complexity.
Report
On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Klukhor-Bashi 3450 m
via the glacier on the northern slope. Category 1B difficulty. Presumably Category 1B difficulty.
Ascent on September 8, 2022.
Semenov M. A. - Master of Sports, team leader
Maksimov K. M. - experienced, second-class climber
Alpclub - "Mountain Madness"