Description

The route of the first ascent via the Northwest Ridge to the summit of Kardyvach Glavnaya (3105 m) - approximately Category 4B difficulty - was climbed by a group of climbers from the Krasnodar City Section of Alpinism under the DSO "TRUD" in May 1970. The Kardyvach Glavnaya peak, with an elevation of 3105 m, is located on the Main (Watershed) Ridge, near the junction of the Main and Gagra ridges in the area of Kardyvach-Ritsa lakes. The peak is a rocky-snowy dome with a sharp shoulder extending to the northwest, which then turns into a ridge. The described ascent route goes from the "13-ti" pass along the northwest ridge.

Route Characteristics

The route is rocky-snowy, mainly ridge-like, and surpasses routes like:

• Dubll-peak
• Adai-khokh

ASCENT PASSPORT

I. ASCENT CLASS — technical 2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE — Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass, Main Caucasian Range. 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE — Kardyvach (Main), 3105 m, via the southern counterfort. 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3A 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: length of sections R1–200 m; R2–40 m; R3–595 m; R4–110 m. elevation gain — 385 m. average slope — 42° 6. NUMBER OF PITS ON: for protection and belay, for artificial climbing holds. rock — 23, ice — 0, bolt — 0 7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME — 7 h 15 min

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: 2.1. Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Kardyvach — Glavnaya, 3150 m, via the eastern ridge, combined (snow, rocks).
4. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 40°.
5. Expected difficulty category: 2B.
6. Pitons driven: for belay; for creating artificial support points | | rock pitons | ice screws | | :---------- | :--------- | :--------- | | rock | 2 | 1 |

Rostov Region Climbing and Rock Climbing Federation

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Chaget-chat 2963.8 m via the south-eastern ridge presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Arkhyz area, Sofiyskoe valley, section 2.1 of the mountain route classifier.
2. Summit: Chaget-chat (2963.8 m), via the south-eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain: 160 m

Chaget-chat (2964 m)

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ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Ascent route: traverse of Tsyndyshko: Northern 3102 m, 2nd Northern 3107 m, Main 3210 m, South-Western 3150 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A
5. Pitons driven: rock: 32 (including chocks) ice: 4 bolt: –

1: CATEGORY OF ASCENT: 2. REGION OF ASCENT 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT AND ASCENT ROUTE 4 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE AVERAGE STEEPNESS LENGTH OF SEC. 6. NUMBER OF PITO­NS FOR BELAY (ROCK) 7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS 8. FULL NAME OF LEADER AND PARTICIPANTS: 9. TEAM COACH

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, ascend along the Mzymta River to the steep ascent to the plateau under Smidovikha Peak (1 hour). Up to the right onto the plateau and further to the 9th pass (1.5 hours). From here, descend and then, traversing the slopes of the Gl. Tsyndyshho massif, exit under the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West. The base of the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West is represented by three steep, converging buttresses. The route follows the leftmost one, as the most logical and safe.

Brief Explanation for the Table

The route begins up a steep snow-ice couloir between the left and central buttresses of the Eastern ridge (R0–R1). Then, up to the left across steep, snow-covered rock slabs — exit onto the left buttress of the Eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West (R1–R2). The route then logically follows the edge of the buttress (R2–R3, R3–R4). Climbing is quite difficult in places. The rocks are steep and highly smoothed in places. The R4–R5 section is a gentle, narrow rock ridge with two small but steep gendarmes, which are climbed head-on. At the start of this section, the first control cairn is built. At the end of the ridge, there is a short wall ending in a ledge where a tent can be set up (R5–R6). From here, straight up a sheer wall (R6–R7). There are very few holds, and climbing is difficult. At the end of the section, the second control cairn is built. The large black gendarme is climbed straight up (R7–R8), with free climbing. Sections R8–R9, R9–R10 are climbed with alternate belays through an ice axe. On section R9–R10, there are many large snow cornices. At the end of R9–R10, there is a wide snow corrie. From the snow corrie, straight up snow-covered rocks — exit onto the main ridge of V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R10–R11). Here, the route converges with route 2B cat. sl. on V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R11–R12). The ascent took 12 hours.