Northwestern Caucasus

Ascent to South Ptysh (3500 m) with 2-6 category of difficulty, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 38 Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Ptysh (3500 m) 2–6 cat. diff. (Fig. 38) From Dombayskaya polyana through Dombayskoye gorge (trail) to the right of Chuchkhurskiye waterfalls to Ptyshskaya bivouac. Further: across scree then left of moraine (trail) left — upwards to the upper cirque of Kruzevnoye glacier across the glacier to the right — upwards to Ptyshsky pass (belay on the glacier!) From Dombayskaya polyana 7–8 hours. Bivouac site. From Ptyshsky pass across ledges to the right — downwards (belay!) onto a snowfield and from it to the buttress of the eastern ridge of Glavny Ptysh (Fig. 38, lower). Further to the right across a ledge (belay!) and through a bergschrund onto the glacier in the direction of Atsgarsky pass. From the glacier across an inclined slab ascent to the left — upwards under a snowfield, then to the left — upwards across a loose inclined couloir (rockfall hazard!) and to the right of the "finger" exit across ledges into the "window". From the "window":

Description of the first ascent of Dalar peak (3981 m) via the East Ridge, grade 5A, climbed by a group from Moscow's Spartak team in 1964.

Brief Characteristics of Dalar Peak Dalar Peak (elevation 3981 m above sea level) is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge. It is 25 km west-southwest of Elbrus. The chain of peaks (Filter, Zamok, Dvoinyashka, Dalar, and Shokoladny) bounds the cirque of the Bolshoy Kichkinokol glacier from the south, east, and west, giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Uzunkol River. The first ascent to Dalar Peak was made in 1937 via route 3B cat. sl. After 1960, other routes were climbed and classified on Dalar: 5B on the North Face; 5B on the NE ridge; 4B from Shokoladny Peak; 4A from the south. The ridge from the east remained, which was traversed in the reverse direction (on descent) by a group from CSKA in 1962 during the traverse of the Kichkinokol horseshoe. The route along the Eastern ridge is very logical. Sports Group Composition

Ascent of the instructors team from the "Dombai" alpine camp to the top of Main Karakaya via the NW wall of the left part in 1974, description of the route of the 6th category of difficulty.

Report on the Ascent in the Area of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp: SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS KOROTKOV V.A. — MS KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974

Description of the ascent route to Dalar peak via the north-eastern wall of the bastion, 6A category of complexity, Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge.

Ascent Passport Technical category Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the bastion (Korablin's route) Proposed 6A category of difficulty Height difference: 910 m, of which 490 m is the wall section; total route length is 1330 m, of which 540 m is the wall section. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 280 m 6th category of difficulty — 180 m Average steepness of the wall section — 68°

Description of the ascent route to Razdelny Peak (3300 m) via the southwestern ridge, complexity category 2A, in the Western Caucasus.

ASCENT PASSPORT Ascent category — rock Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Razdelny, 3300 m via south-west ridge, rock, first ascent Proposed category of difficulty — 2A Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m (from the beginning of the ridge) length of sections:

Report on the ascent to Dalar peak via the Eastern ridge (Kavunenko route, 1964) 5A category of difficulty as part of the 2024 North-Western and Central Federal Districts Championship in Alpinism.

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class 2024. Report on the Ascent to Mt. Dalar via the East Ridge (Kavunenko Route, 1964) 5A Category of Complexity. I. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Strizhko Yulia Gennadyevna, 2nd sports rank. | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Radkova Maria Alekseyevna, 2nd sports rank. Rodyukov Oleg Yuryevich, 2nd sports rank. |

Ascent certificate for the summit Dalar via the left part of the North face, 6A category of difficulty, Western Caucasus, Uzunkol valley.

Ascent Passport Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge Name of the peak: Dalar via the left part of the N wall. Proposed — 6A category of complexity (Snesarev — Shopin combination) Route type: rock Height difference: 950 m. Route length — 1200 m. Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 415 m 6th cat. diff. – 280 m

Ascent to the summit Main Amanauz via the north-eastern wall through the "mirror", category of difficulty 6.0, made in 1977 by a group of climbers "Burevestnik".

All-Union Council of the DSO Trade Unions Department of Mountaineering Alplager "Dombay" Caucasus (2.2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass) Amanauz Main (Dvuzubka) 3757 m via north-eastern wall through the "mirror" | BODNIK V.N. | CMS | "Burevestnik" | team leader | | :---------- | :-: | :-----------: | :----------- | | BYCHEK A.M. | CMS | "Burevestnik" | participants | | VERBA A.A. | CMS | "Burevestnik" | participant |

Report on the first ascent of a 3A category rock climbing route along the northwestern ridge of Orlenok North-Western (3031 m) peak in the Western Caucasus.

ASCENT REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PEAK 3031 (ORLYONOK NORTH-WEST) VIA THE “NORTH-WEST RIDGE” ROUTE, CATEGORY III (ROCK) BY THE TEAM FROM “SAUK-PAY” CLUB (SYKTYVKAR) IN MAY 2018 YEAR OF REPORT: 2018 I. Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-------------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank | Vyacheslav Viktorovich Babkin: Candidate for Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist, Yekaterinburg | | 1.2 | Participants' Full Names, Sports Ranks | 1. Pyotr Yuryevich Plyukhin: 1st sports category, Moscow2. Natalya Yuryevna Lisovskaya: 2nd sports category, Smolensk | | 1.3 | Coach's Full Name | Sergey Vasilyevich Zhuravlyov: Candidate for Master of Sports, 1st category instructor-methodologist, Syktyvkar | | 1.4 | Organization | Non-profit partnership "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (Syktyvkar) | | | 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | |

Report on the first ascent of the route of 4A category of complexity to the top of Kara-Jash via the northern ridge in the Western Caucasus.

Karajash Peak (3171) Route: via the northern ridge Complexity category: 4A cat. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok ravine, mountain range (ridge) Karajash Section in KMGV – 2.1. E-mail – [email protected] Report On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the Karajash peak (3171) "Via the northern ridge 4A cat. (combined)".