Ascent Passport

  1. Technical category
  2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
  3. Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the bastion (Korablin's route)
  4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty
  5. Height difference: 910 m, of which 490 m is the wall section; total route length is 1330 m, of which 540 m is the wall section. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 280 m 6th category of difficulty — 180 m
  6. Average steepness of the wall section — 68°
  7. Previously used pitons — 3 Pitons used: rock, nuts, friends, ice screws — 25/2, 63/3, 78/12, 10/0
  8. Climbing hours — 42, days — 4
  9. Overnights: 1st and 2nd — sitting; 3rd — lying down
  10. Team leader — Boyko V.V. — Master of Sports Participants: Pivikov D.E. — Master of Sports, Ukolov S.D. — 1st sports category
  11. Team coach — Dzhaparidze Yu.O. — Master of Sports
  12. Departure to the route — August 4, 2005 Summit — August 7, 2005 Return to base camp: August 7, 2005

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  1. Dalar via the eastern ridge 5A (Kavunenko — 1964)
  2. Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the eastern shoulder 5B (Porodnya — 1978)
  3. Dalar via the eastern wall of the Bastion 5B (Kavunenko — 1964)
  4. Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the bastion 6A (Korablina — 1975)
  5. Dalar via the center of the bastion 5A (Ivashchenko — 1982)
  6. Dalar via the northern wall of the bastion 5A (Warburton — 1976)
  7. Dalar via the north-eastern edge 5B (Stepanov — 1962)

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SectionRockNuts, friendsIceRoute diagramSection length (m)Steepness (°)Category of difficulty
R1284070°5–6
R1110/25100°4
2580°5
1590°6
R1059/72090°6
1080°5
1580°5
R914/410110°6
1090°6
2085°5–6
R8134780–90°5–6
R7410/44590–100°6
R6311/41085°6
3090°6
R53104080°5–6
R4123080°5
785°5
R31104085°5
R24/210590°5
2580°5
1075°5
R1544065°4
R0
SectionRockNuts, friendsIceRoute diagramSection length (m)Steepness (°)Category of difficulty
:--::-----::--::-----------::---::-----------::----------------::-----------::--------------------:
R19
R18810060°5
R1744080°5
R1654575°4
R1534070°4
R1425045°2
R131030045–50°3

img-2.jpeg Section R3

img-3.jpeg Technical photo

img-4.jpeg Section R8

Section R12

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Sources

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