Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism

Report

on the passage of the climbing route category 6B on v. Erydag "through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall", made within the framework of the Russian Championship in Alpinism

high-altitude and technical class (fifth passage of the route)

Passport of Ascent

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table 2013:
2. Caucasus. 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan (from v. Shaviklade to v. Bazardyuzyu)
3. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: v. Erydag, height of the summit 3887, name of the route – through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall (route No. 48g of section 2.10. according to the classification table 2013).
4. Category of complexity 6B.
5. Character of the route: rock.
6. Height difference of the route: 1167 m Length of the route: 2925 m Length of sections of the route by category of complexity:
   • 1 – 1930 m
   • 2 – 20 m
   • 3 – 45 m
   • 4 – 80 m
   • 5 – 170 m
   • A1 – 130 m
   • A2 – 500 m
   • A3 – 50 m
7. Team's working hours: 94 hours.
8. Descent from the summit: Descent through v. Sel'dy, 1B.
9. Leader: Skripnik Eduard Vladimirovich, CMS; Participants: Iver Evgeny Vasilyevich, CMS; Boiko Evgeny Vasilyevich, CMS.
10. Coach: Enin Vladimir Ilyich, CMS, instructor-methodologist of the 1st category; Responsible for safety: Leonov Petr Georgievich, MS, instructor-methodologist of the 1st category; Judge at the competition venue: Leonov Petr Georgievich, judge of the 1st category.
11. Departure on the route: 14:00, July 11, 2017; Reaching the summit: 17:15, July 19, 2017; Return to the base camp: 12:00, July 20, 2017.
12. Organization: Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism (SRFA).
13. Responsible for the report – Iver Evgeny Vasilyevich Tel. +7 (981) 970 32 80 Email – evgeniy.iver@gmail.com

General photo of the summit

Photograph # 1.

Photopanorama of the area

Photograph # 2. Routes:

1. Koltunov, 2010,
2. Dorro, 2002,
3. Goloshchapov, 1983,
4. Shanovazov, 2005 (route passed by the team),
5. Voronin, 2001, 6. Rodoshkevich, 1981.

Scheme of the route in UIAA symbols

Scheme # 1. Section of the route from R0 to R12 (Scheme borrowed from the report on the first ascent of this route by a group led by Shanovazov Sh. E.).

Scheme # 2. Section of the route from R12 to R23 (Scheme borrowed from the report on the first ascent of this route by a group led by Shanovazov Sh. E.).

Scheme # 3. Section of the route from R23 to R25 (Scheme borrowed from the report on the first ascent of this route by a group led by Shanovazov Sh. E.).

Technical photograph of the route

Photograph # 3.

Brief description of the route passage

When choosing the tactics of ascent, the team decided to make it in alpine style, without prior processing.

The group left the base camp on July 10, 2017, and carried 60 kg of equipment and 50 liters of water to the beginning of the route (collected in a stream, 20 minutes' walk from the start of the route). On the same day, they returned to the base camp. Weather – rain, fog (visibility 20–50 m).

On July 11, 2017, they approached in bad weather and carried another 20 kg of equipment and 10 kg of food. Rain and fog under the wall. After the rain stopped, they hung ropes to R3 and set up a platform on R2.

On July 12, 2017, they hung ropes to Control Tour No. 1 (between sections R6 and R7), and moved the platform to a shelf between sections R3 and R4. Weather – clear.

On July 13, 2017, they hung ropes to R10 (base of the large cornice), and moved the platform to R9. Weather – in the clouds.

On July 14, 2017, they passed the large cornice. Hung a rope to R12, moved the platform to R11.

On July 15, 2017, they moved the platform to R14 (KT 2, no note). Weather: occasional thunderstorms, heavy rain, hail, waterfalls on the wall (Photograph # 15).

On July 16, 2017, they moved the platform to R16. Weather: morning, afternoon, and evening occasional rain, hail.

On July 17, 2017, they hung ropes to R19, set up a platform on the section between R18 and R19. Weather – clear.

On July 18, 2017, they reached a large shelf. Processed to R22. Spent the night on R21 (upper part of the large shelf). Weather – clear.

On July 19, 2017, reached the summit at 17:15. Weather – clear.

It is worth noting that, despite the fact that the first ascenders tried to minimize the use of drill holes, on sections A1–A3 they remain almost the main belay points. And if in the lower part of the route, up to the large cornice, the holes for drill holes are visible, since there have been 4 attempts to pass the route over the past two years, then after the large cornice they were all clogged with rock and almost invisible. The time it took to install a drill hole in an old hole did not differ much from drilling a new one.

To ensure safety when passing complex sections, the first person moved on a double rope.

The greatest danger on the route is the exit to R25, with many loose stones on a slope of 40–45°. It is especially necessary to be careful after heavy rainfall, a mudflow is possible. The route corresponds to the category of complexity 6B proposed by the team of first ascenders. The following speaks in favor of this:

1. The participants of our team have experience in passing routes of category 6A, all of which are significantly inferior in complexity to the route passed:
   • v. Dalar on the NE wall of the bastion;
   • v. Erydag on the left part of the NW wall along the "sickle";
   • p. Shokoladny on the "mirrors" of the SW wall;
   • v. Asan along the center of the NW wall (Gorbenko M.);
   • v. Asan along the center of the NW wall (Timofeev S.);
   • v. Tsey-Loam (Kyazi) on the left part of the SE wall.
2. The low attendance of this route, clearly due to the underestimated category of complexity. From 2011–2016, not a single attempt was made to ascend.
3. After temporarily assigning category 6B to this route in 2016–2017, 4 unsuccessful attempts were made to pass it.
4. Conclusions of the team of the FAiS of the Sverdlovsk region, who made the second passage of this route and have experience in passing routes of category 6B difficulty in different mountainous regions. The report with conclusions is posted on the website of the FAR of Russia (www.alpfederation.ru↗).
5. Conclusions of the team of ChGSO "Alpclub" (Chelyabinsk), who made the fourth passage of this route and have experience in passing routes of category 6B difficulty in different mountainous regions. The report with conclusions is posted on the website of the FAR of Russia (www.alpfederation.ru↗).

Taking into account the above, the team petitions the Classification Commission of the FAR of Russia to review the category of complexity of this route and approve it on a permanent basis as 6B.

Notes from the summit control points

Photograph # 4. Note from Control Tour No. 1.

Photograph # 5. Note in Control Tour No. 2 not found. The flask was without a lid and filled with water. The team left a new flask and their note.

No note was found at the summit. The team left their note.

Photo illustration of the report

Photograph # 6. Passage of section R2–R3.

Photograph # 7. Passage of section R3–R4.

Photograph # 8. Passage of section R4–R5.

Photograph # 9. Passage of section R7–R8.

Photograph # 10. Passage of section R9–R10.

Photographs # 11 and 12. Passage of section R10–R11.

Photograph # 13. Passage of section R11–R12.

Photograph # 14. Overnight stay on section R11 (Evgeny Iver, Eduard Skripnik).

Photograph # 15. Passage of section R12–R13, immediately after a thunderstorm and rain with hail.

Photograph # 16. Passage of section R13–R14 (Evgeny Iver).

Photograph # 17. Passage of section R18–R19.

Photograph # 18. Passage of section R21–R22.

Photograph # 19. Passage of section R24–R25.

Photograph # 20. At the summit (Evgeny Iver, Eduard Skripnik, Evgeny Boiko).